Preservatives are, without question, an important part of any cosmetic you buy. This is especially true for products that contain plant extracts—just think about how long a head of lettuce lasts in your refrigerator before it becomes a moldy, bacteria-laden mess.

Whether it is a cleanser, lotion, toner, blush, foundation, or mascara, without preservatives these everyday items would become overloaded with microbes you don’t want on your skin or near your eyes. But what makes a good preservative or a bad one? In the cosmetic industry with insanity prevailing these days, it’s getting harder to tell as most websites want to scare you to death about the ingredients in beauty products.

In reality, the amount of an ingredient is everything. What is dangerous at a 100% concentration or when it is fed to rats or injected under their skin doesn’t often, if ever, apply to a 0.1% concentration in a skin-care or makeup product. It is also important to understand that one person’s allergic reaction doesn’t speak to the millions of other people using it safely (just because you are allergic to cats doesn’t mean everyone is).

Let’s look at the ingredient/dose issue. Take salt for example. Salt is NaCl, sodium (Na) chloride (Cl). Sodium and chloride by themselves are corrosive, but together they become a tasty seasoning for chicken. But consuming too much salt can be a serious problem for high blood pressure, but not necessarily for those who don’t have high blood pressure. It works this way for each and every cosmetic ingredient as well.

One other point: Because preservatives, natural or otherwise, exert their action by killing microbes they can also have an irritancy reaction on skin. However, because preservatives are often used in such small amounts they generally pose minimal to no risk for most people in that regard.

Trying to hone down this complicated issue isn’t easy, but here is a brief summary for some of the more typical preservatives you may find on an ingredient label:

Parabens. While natural cosmetic companies love vilifying parabens, it turns out parabens in the form of butylparaben, propylparaben, methylparaben, and ethylparaben are some of the more effective and gentle preservatives used in cosmetics. They were originally derived from plants and are mostly manufactured synthetically.
Concern over parabens made headlines because of research showing that they are endocrine disrupters. This research involved both oral administration and injection into rat skin which did show evidence of a weak estrogen effect on cells in a way that could be problematic for binding to receptor sites associated with proliferation of MCF-7 breast cancer cells. That is scary sounding stuff.
Current research investigating how parabens act when administered orally, topically, and subcutaneously to rats has shown that parabens are metabolized rapidly in living organisms and therefore cannot exhibit any adverse effects. Parabens are fully metabolized before they enter the blood stream. (For more information on parabens, visit www.cosmeticscop.com and use our Ingredient Dictionary.)

Formaldehyde. Is a very effective anti-microbial agent and can be used in a very low concentration in cosmetics. However, even in small amounts it can be irritating and when combined with amines (such as triethanolamine), can create nitrosamines. Formaldehyde in its pure form is a suspected human carcinogen.

2-bromo-2-nitropane 1-3 diol. Is a formaldehyde-releasing preservative but is not associated with the same problems as pure formaldehyde.

DMDM Hydantoin. Is a formaldehyde-releasing preservative but is not associated with the same problems as pure formaldehyde.

Imidazolidinyl Urea. Is a formaldehyde-releasing preservative but is not associated with the same problems as pure formaldehyde.

Phenxoyethanol. Is a preservative that breaks down into phenol, which is one of the reasons it is such a good antimicrobial agent. When ingested it can be problematic and exposure to the environment such as its effect on fish shows some concern, but when applied topically research shows it does not affect skin in any negative way for wound healing or other toxic reactions.

Benzalkonium Chloride. Is a relatively safe and effective anti-microbial agent.

Sodium Benzoate. Is considered to be a mild preservative with no known problems when applied topically. It is also used as a food-grade preservative.

Benzoic Acid. Is an effective preservative found in nature that contains a form of parabens. For cosmetics it is almost always synthetically derived.

Methylisothiazolinone and Methylchloroisothiazolinone. Are known to be sensitizing and are not recommended in leave-on products. They are not known to have any other problems associated with their use in cosmetics. A toxicology and medical literature search shows no other issues with these two ingredients.

EDTA (ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid). Is a chelating agent used in cosmetics to prevent metals such as copper or salts in water used in the formula from causing changes to the texture and efficacy of the product. It is not known to have any problems other than skin sensitivity. It must be used with other preservatives to be effective. Phytic acid is a possible natural alternative to EDTA.

Plant-based Preservatives. While certain ingredients have potential for preserving cosmetics, there is very little research showing they can carry the burden or remain stable to keep a product free of microbes over the life of the product. Further, because plant-based preservatives require larger amounts to preserve a product they also can become irritating or cytotoxic to skin. Plus, many of these extracts have limitations and are not without their own “scare” factor. Much research is being done on this issue.

Clove extract (eugenol). Can cause respiratory problems when inhaled.
Eucalyptus extract. One of the components of this plant is cresol, a possible carcinogen.
Cypress extract. Is a natural emission of methanol, which can cause irritation.
Sorbic acid. Can be found in nature, but is more often synthetically derived.
Tree lichen extracts. Are effective against mold and fungus, but not bacteria.
Lonciera Japanese. Is better known as honeysuckle and is a natural source of parabens and therefore can be an effective preservative.

When all is said and done, there is truly no reason to be scared of the preservatives in your product. The alternative is not a pretty picture, and natural ingredients are not without their risks. Beautiful products stay beautiful and effective when a safe level of preservatives is used in the formula.

Our Cosmetics Cop Team analyzes hundreds of ridiculous, implausible, and downright false claims cosmetic companies make about their products every day. Even when beauty products really do turn out to be excellent formulations, the marketing mumbo jumbo used to describe them is akin to a Looney Tunes cartoon about skin care more than anything else. We wanted to share with you our top five product claims that just had us rolling our eyes last month.

 1. Avon Anew Clinical Body Contouring Treatment ($25 for 5 oz)
Claims: “Tightens, smoothes and lifts in all the right places. Lifts sagging and reduces crepiness. Nearly 100% of women showed tighter skin on abs, hips and thighs, plus more lifted buttocks. Up to 93% showed firmer skin. Up to 50% more lifted buttocks.* Up to 50% tighter skin. Instantly skin feels firmer and more toned. In just 2 weeks 82% of women saw a more contoured-looking body. Over time reduces the look of excess skin on abs, hips, thighs and buttocks; works like an invisible body shaper to minimize unwanted curves.”

The first thing we asked is how does this product know what needs lifting and what doesn’t, given you’re applying it all over? Also, when would it know when to stop lifting? Who needs their thighs up around their waist? 100% of women had tighter skin, but only 93% had firmer skin? And up to 50% tighter skin? First, what’s the difference between firmer and tighter, and second, who was doing the counting because these are the oddest totals ever? And what does 100% of women mean? If there were two women who worked for Avon that would be 100%? It’s just all utter nonsense. There isn’t one ingredient in this product that is going to change the shape of your body. Perhaps this product should be called Clinical Downsizing of Your Wallet for $25!

2. ReVive Serum Presse ($295 for 1 oz)
Claims: “Instant gratification in a bottle…the first RéVive serum to give skin the look of instant lift and radiance. Noticeably lifts and firms the skin immediately with an advanced polysaccharide tensor while brightening soft-focus optics give skin an instant glow.”

Notice the words “the look of” before “instant lift.” That’s a clever way of stating what consumers with sagging skin want to hear, but in truth it isn’t saying your skin will be lifted at all. Quite the contrary, all you’re getting for $295 for 1 ounce is “the look of lifted skin” but that isn’t remotely the same as actually lifting sagging skin back into place. And even if it could do that, what happens to the excess skin? Does it shrink? Of course not, and there isn’t one ingredient in here that will give you the results you are hoping for. As for the “soft-focus optics” this is supposed to contain, it is a sham way to describe the shiny particles this product contains, the same shiny particles a $10 blush uses.

3. Clarins Fix’ Make-Up ($25.50 for 1 oz)
Claims: “A refreshing mist that sets make-up and prolongs its hold, while providing a feeling of instant freshness and well-being. Also provides continuous hydration and comfort.”

We couldn’t believe our eyes when we read this claim! There is nothing about this that translates to a real-life experience. It is designed as a spray-on mist to set your makeup, but this product does little more than make skin feel damp and slightly sticky. It contains nothing that enhances makeup wear; in fact, overdoing this can lead to makeup meltdown or streaking. Plus the fragrance from both synthetic and plant extracts are over the top and made us gag. Whoever thought this overpriced, gimmicky product was a good idea needs to rethink their career!

4. Nu Skin AgeLoc Gentle Cleanse & Tone ($53 for 2 oz)
Claims: “Gently purifies and primes skin morning and night. This sophisticated foaming cleanser combines cleansing and toning into a single step, while providing the skin with advanced anti-aging ingredients. This luxurious formula delivers your first infusion of ageLOC and leaves your skin feeling soft and refreshed.”

We had to double-check the price for this cleanser to make sure we weren’t seeing things, as this just may be the most expensive cleanser in the cosmetic world that ends up being nothing more than an exceptionally standard, detergent-based water soluble cleanser, and we mean really standard. Even if it did contain anti-aging ingredients, in a cleanser it would just be rinsed down the drain. Yes this works to clean skin and remove makeup, but the price is sheer lunacy. Similar cleansers are available from Olay, Neutrogena, Clean & Clear, and Paula’s Choice for a fraction of the cost (and in sizes that won’t be depleted in two or three weeks).

5. Serious Skin Care Eyetality Total Eye Care ($36.50 for 0.5 oz)
Claims: “Eyetality takes a leap into the future of skin care and brings you our first all encompassing eye beauty treatment that addresses each and every specific need of the complete eye area.”

Talk about outrageous claims—how can any one product take care of each and every specific need of any area, especially considering this product doesn’t contain sunscreen! What about that need, given the wrinkles around the eye are almost all about sun damage, shouldn’t a “Total Eye Care” include an effective SPF? Even more implausible is the fact that there are no skin-care answers for puffiness, droopy lids, dark circles, or pouching around the eye. This is just yet another addition to the thousands of eye creams on the market making the same claims they can’t live up to.  

We just had to throw in one more:

6. Glamoxy Snake Serum ($150 for .85 oz)
Claims: “This revolutionary oxygenated, viper-inspired serum contains syn-ake; a neuro peptide that mimics the effects of the Temple Viper’s potent venom to instantly lift the face, freeze muscles and plump fine lines and wrinkles.”

We had to hiss at every claim this product makes. It is nothing more than a pathetic attempt to prove Glamoxy can mimic the affect of Botox. The entire notion is laughable and completely bogus. Snake venom doesn’t work like Botox in any shape or form. First, given you are applying it with your hands, if Glamoxy actually worked, wouldn’t the muscles in your hand be frozen as well? You would also likely be applying it to areas of your face you don’t want to freeze. The star ingredients listed on this product’s website with names such as Proturon and Ronasphere are trade names for sodium hyaluronate and silica, which are about as special as white bread! These are standard ingredients and completely without any Botox-like properties for skin.

Another overblown ingredient is listed as Fiflow BTX which is supposed to carry oxygen to the skin. The actual ingredients for this are perfluorohexane, perfluoroperhydrophenanthrene, perfluorodecalin, and perfluorodimethylcyclohexane, which obviously are not as impressive sounding as Fiblow BTX. These substances are fluorocarbons that do indeed bring oxygen to lungs in some medical situations, but the effect on skin, if any, is not known. After all, oxygen causes free-radical damage. Not to mention the EPA is considering taking these off the market. All in all, this product gives an entirely new meaning to the term “snake oil.”

Now let’s hear some of your favorites…

Accutane was a brand name for an oral, anti-acne medication that is no longer being prescribed, but the active ingredient in it (isotretinoin) is now available as a generic. Accutane/isotretinoin has the potential to cure acne or at the very least make it go away for awhile. Once a round of isotretinoin is done, the acne may still return; however, if it does, it is rarely as bad as before.

Regrettably, isotretinoin is a difficult drug. There are lots of serious side effects such as elevated cholesterol, liver problems, loss of hair, unbelievably dry skin, birth defects if you get pregnant while taking it, depression (though that side effect is controversial), headaches, bloody nose, and on and on. But for me, my acne was even more difficult than all of those health risks, which is why, once I was fully informed about the risks, I still opted to take this medicine to help my acne.

Prior to Accutane, every morning for me was a living nightmare of having to look in the mirror to see what had happened to it overnight. It was agonizing and it was rarely good news. And then during the day I could feel eruptions developing as I touched my face or felt the small throbs where swollen bumps were growing. I even hated the word “pimple.” I found it embarrassing and insulting. I am sure anyone struggling with acne knows just how I felt, and how strong the desire for clear skin becomes.

When I finally decided to try Accutane it was with utter abandon. I would do anything to not have this struggle of seeing red, inflamed, white dotted lesions on my face.

When I started my prescription I noticed a difference within the first week. I’ll never forget the moment when I touched my face and felt nothing that I was so used to feeling. All I could feel was smooth skin! Much to my continued surprise, it remained that way for weeks. I had some of the side effects I was told about, including bloody nose, dry lips, and headaches. No one tested for liver function and cholesterol levels in those days and I was beyond getting pregnant so there is much I don’t know for what did or didn’t go wrong for me internally. What I do know is that it was the first time in my life since the age of 11 that I liked looking at myself in the mirror.

At the three month point I started experiencing hair loss and that freaked me out. As a result, I stopped taking the drug and, as expected, the hair loss stopped. The trade-off for stopping too soon to save my hair was my acne came back about two months later. I did a great deal of research and found that the dosage and timing was a big deal. A lower dose taken over a longer period of time seemed to be far better. I discussed this with a new physician and started another cycle of Accutane. Thankfully, it went much better the second time around.

Today, almost 17 years later, I still struggle with breakouts but nothing like I did before Accutane. I sometimes think I should have taken another treatment cycle but never did, not because of the risks, it was just that I never got around to it and I was happy enough with the results two rounds of Accutane provided.

Given everything known about isotretinoin/Accutane my only personal regret is that I waited so long to take it. I can only guess what my mornings would have been like in my 20s and early 30s had I taken the drug back then, and not wasted so much time and money on irritant-laden products that made matters worse not better. Like many of you, I just didn’t know any better and just kept buying product after product hoping something would work.

Everyone has to weigh the pros and cons of many things they do in life; for me, Accutane was a no-brainer. Whether you feel the same way is a decision only you can make, but if you decide to take isotretinoin, be certain you’re fully informed of the risks, particularly if you’re a woman of childbearing age.

When it comes to finding out your skin type, the first thing you need to do is forget everything you’ve heard before! What you’ve been taught by cosmetics salespeople, aestheticians, fashion magazines, and even some dermatologists, is likely incorrect, confusing, or designed to simply keep you buying more and more products—it all ends here!

Click here to get the full article.

Mendi A.
I would like to see a blog about the truth regarding sunscreen and how it’s allegedly preventing us from getting enough Vitamin D from sunlight, which is causing all sorts of different problems for people, some of whom I personally know (low Vit. D). The different info is really getting confusing. I want to protect my skin from damage and wrinkles, especially my face, but am I also hurting myself in other ways by doing so?

My team and I have written extensively about this issue. The articles are all on PaulasChoice.com. Click here for our article on Vitamin D and Sun Exposure. 

Kate B.
I would like a blog on how you defend your condemnation of alcohol and witch hazel in skin products to alternate-medicine people (like Dr. Weil) who vociferously promote them.

I’ve searched Dr. Weil’s website and he doesn’t seem to like alcohol, either. He has pages explaining it can be a causative factor for cancer, erectile dysfunction, dementia, osteoporosis, dry skin, and on and on.

For what I’ve written, there is nothing to defend; I am merely reiterating what the research shows is true for this ingredient. The studies we have cited on PaulasChoice.com for alcohol makes it abundantly clear that alcohol (in the form of denatured alcohol, benzyl alcohol, SD alcohol, and ethanol) causes irritation, free radical damage, cell death, and dryness. A martini isn’t a health food for your body any more than it is for skin. Alcohol is also a poor antibacterial agent for acne (the bacteria that causes acne isn’t on the surface of skin it’s in the pore and alcohol can’t penetrate that deep into skin), and because of the irritation it causes, it stimulates oil production directly in the pore.

The problem with witch hazel is that it can be a skin irritant when used daily and is often stabilized in alcohol.

Lisa D.
Color trends. I know how you feel about blue eye shadow but the group that grew up wearing it is now in charge and color is just as popular as ever. Is there any color(s) you find appropriate or have you changed your mind about blue at all?

Actually, the people developing makeup products are younger than you can ever imagine. They are not the baby boomers. Kids run the cosmetics industry when it comes to marketing and those are the people making decisions about the products being sold.

In terms of colors, I have never changed my viewpoint about blue or other pastel, overly obvious colors. But the fashion world has supported that viewpoint month after month, year after year. You only have to look at the makeup worn by celebrities when they are on the red carpet, or models in fashion magazines in ads for clothing companies, or the makeup on the cover girls on magazines—they aren’t wearing blue, purple, pink, orange, red, burgundy, or mauve eyeshadows. The neutral brown, tan, beige, charcoal shades are, and always have been, the best options for the eyes.

Kyra M.
I’d love to read about how and where Paula’s Choice is giving back to the community. Where does Paula see the greatest need?

At Paula’s Choice our mission is to take brilliant care of your skin, whether you use our products or someone else’s, but we also strive to do all we can to be of service to the community. There is no need that isn’t important. All any of us can do is be involved, donate our money and/or time and care, regardless of the cause. Paula’s Choice commitment to give in this way comes from our hearts and we are honored to participate in this effort.

Paula’s Choice and I personally and proudly support:

American Cancer Society
American Humane Society
American Red Cross (Disaster Relief Fund)
ASPCA
DAWN (Domestic Abuse Women’s Network)
Dress for Success Seattle (a division of the YWCA)
Habitat for Humanity
Humane Society of the United States
Juvenile Diabetes Foundation
Save the Children Federation, Inc.
Susan G. Komen Breast Cancer Foundation
United Negro College Fund
YWCA

Rachel D. 
How to resolve common makeup crises:
Stubborn mascara that won’t wash off with soap and water — Use mineral oil or Paula’s Choice Gentle Touch Makeup Remover; unbelievably effective!

Foundation that’s peeling off as you try to apply — You are either using the wrong foundation (check our recommendations on Beautypedia.com), you’re over-blending, or you’re wearing a moisturizer or sunscreen that doesn’t wear well under makeup.

What to do when you decide to touch up your powder eyeliner and it leaves sprinkles across your face after you’ve completed your makeup. — Always knock the excess off your brush before applying. Keep your makeup sponge and a bit of foundation and your magnifying mirror handy to touch up what does fall on to your face. 

You blink and leave a ring of wet mascara below and/or above — You need to use a mascara that’s not as wet as you’re describing. You can also build the intensity slowly so it isn’t as wet when you go to the next eye. When a mistake does happen, let it dry completely and then use a Q-tip to flick it away. You can then touch up with your concealer or foundation.

Lauren M.
I’d like to read about the best moisturizers with sunscreen in them for sensitive skin.

We have a large list of options on Beautypedia.com but in general, for sensitive skin, the only active ingredients on the label should be titanium dioxide and/or zinc oxide. Synthetic sunscreens always have a risk of causing an irritant reaction for some skin types.

Donny
To coincide with summer: what types of sun and rays of sun we should avoid. How each type affects our skin for the short-term and long-term? Ideal application and frequency of sun-screen, and store alternatives we can buy.

UVA damages DNA, UVB burns the skin. Both cause skin cancer, wrinkles, collagen breakdown, impaired immune cells, and brown skin discolorations. Infrared heat from the sun is something your skin feels; it doesn’t cause damage as long as you are not outside in 100+ degree weather for very long. It’s really that simple. Ideal application is every day of your life, use an SPF 15 or greater (and greater is better, I like layering sunscreen for the face, a moisturizer with sunscreen, a foundation and pressed powder with sunscreen). 

Susan G. 
Why is my skin allergic to sunless tanning gel?

Why are some people allergic to dogs but not cats, or grass but not flowers, or pollen but not flowers? It’s just the way your body reacts to the typical ingredients in self-tanners.

Susan B.
How do you take care of dry skin on your feet?

Check out this article where you’ll find skin-care solutions for knees, heels, and elbows. And don’t forget to sign up for my FREE newsletters here.

The Cosmetics Cop Team held a contest asking our Facebook and Twitter fans to suggest what they’d like me to blog about. You can read my response to the winning question here. Actually, all of the questions were really great and challenging so I am blogging brief answers to those requests. Thanks to everyone who contributed to the contest! I loved it!

Brian N.
I’d like to see a blog about where the industry is going to go in the next 10 years and what’s new and exciting on the horizons in terms of research etc.

I’d like to know where it’s going, too. Right now it seems that consumers will buy anything that says “all natural” or “anti-wrinkle” (and people over 50 have more money to spend than any other group). In terms of what will really benefit skin that is yet to be seen.

Brandi L.
Adult acne and struggling with “teenage” like super oily skin in my late 20s. Always hoped I’d be done by now.

There is no difference in treating adult acne than teenage acne, and you would still approach your skin-care regimen in the same way. Follow this link to my article on Acne Treatment. Good luck, and let us know how you are doing on your routine!

Sabrina W.
I’d love to see you write more about your products and which are best for Rosacea. You have some information on your website and beautypedia, but not extensive information. So far I’m pleased with my new products.

Here is an article on our website about rosacea that I think will really help you: Rosacea Skin Care Solutions.

Caroline B.
Deceptive product advertising and why we continue to fall for the BS. What specific communications techniques do they use for particular target markets, and how can the consumer be more aware of these deceptive practices?

It’s all deceptive. Period. Why? Because women want to be beautiful and the claims, celebrity endorsements, and advertisements are too seductive to ignore no matter how repetitive and redundant they are. Keep in mind that even the cosmetic companies don’t believe what they advertise or they wouldn’t keep launching new products, making the same claims as the ones they currently sell or sell in other lines they own.

Jenna K.
I would like to see information regarding Oil Cleansing Method. website: http://www.theoilcleansingmethod.com/ On a similar note, I find baby oil removes all traces of my Colorstay foundation, but I am not sure if it is damaging to my acne-prone skin.

There is nothing wrong with using mineral oil to remove makeup. Mineral oil is one of the most benign, gentle ingredients in the world of skin care. There is no research showing cosmetic or pharmaceutical grade mineral oil is a problem for skin.

The website you mention is a bit weird. Again there is nothing wrong with removing makeup with oil, plant oil, or mineral oil, but the reasoning in this article is just odd. For example, one of the points is that oil removes oil and therefore you need to use oil to clean out your pores which contain oil. Think about it, if you have oil on your counter top would you ever try to clean it up with more oil? It would just get worse. It also mentions the need for steam. That is really bad information. Steam can cause fragile surface capillaries to surge with blood and then burst causing redness and spider veins on the face. Plus heat stimulates oil production in the pore.

There is some pretty silly and often imprudent advice floating around on Internet sites and in fashion magazines offering beauty suggestions for traveling women. Traveling is challenging enough without having to waste time packing things you don’t need, or won’t help you get through security. The tips below will help you arrive looking gorgeous and feeling great!

Here is absolutely what you need to do so you can be a happy camper anywhere you go:

• Pack your carry on wisely. Do not try to get cuticle clippers, scissors, razors, or bottles over 3.4 ounces through airport security. Sharp objects of any kind are not allowed (I had a pointy pair of tweezers confiscated recently).
• Use a quart-sized plastic bag as recommended by the Transportation Security Administration (TSA). You are only allowed one plastic bag, and because it can’t be said too often, the enclosed containers must be 3.4 ounces or less.
• Wear sunscreen! Not only are you going to be dry up there, you’re going to be exposed to intense UV light when the windows are open (it really helps to close those windows if your neighbor doesn’t mind).
• Wear shoes that expand. Your feet will swell up. Think brands like Clarks, Munro, Merrel, and Fitzwell.
• Forget the heels. Watching women all over the world teeter on heels trying to get through airports is just sad to see.
• Don’t wear flip flops. They offer no support which will make you feel and look tired and put your body into an unattractive and unhealthy posture (almost as bad as really high heels).
• Wear loose, nice clothes that expand and don’t wrinkle; you will look and feel great. Stretch jerseys are the absolute best. For high end, check out Misook at Nordstrom.com, and for less-expensive options check out MyShape.com! They have the most amazing collection of stretch jersey clothing ever!
• Whatever makeup you wear, be sure it is easy to remove for long flights. Sleeping in your makeup is awful for your face. You can end up with swollen, puffy eyes, breakouts, and dry, flaky skin.
• Wear lip gloss or a creamy lipstick. Lips dry out in an airplane and at high altitudes. You can also try a lip stain like Revlon’s Just Bitten Lipstain and keep reapplying the gloss that’s part of the packaging.
• Bring oil blotting papers. They help anywhere you are, but are especially helpful after a long flight.
• Do drink a lot of water and don’t have more than one cocktail. Your body and head will thank you for it.

What you should bring on the plane that can get through security:

• Afrin or some other nasal spray for when your ears get plugged during landing. It can make all the difference and can be used in the moment when you start feeling uncomfortable pressure.
• Bring a travel size container of your favorite fragrance, but don’t overdo it. The person you are sitting next to might have a sensitivity or allergy to fragrance (I know I do).
• Travel-sized packets of your skin-care routine are a must, and include a toothbrush and tiny travel-size of toothpaste. At the end of the flight it helps to do your skin-care routine, brush your teeth, and apply simple makeup. It will feel wonderfully refreshing and look beautiful.
• All Paula’s Choice skin-care products come in travel sizes, and I’ve never had them questioned at security so I don’t pack them in my quart-sized bag.
• To get your makeup on the plane, pack your foundation in the quart-sized bag. Other than my foundation I’ve never had my lipstick, concealer, mascara, or other makeup products questioned at security.
• Include a travel-sized packet of a rich moisturizer for your hands. My Beautiful Body Butter is perfect. It is dry up there and your hands will feel it. And don’t forget to apply sunscreen as a finishing step.
• Lubricating eye drops—what a difference these make! Not only does your skin get dry, but so do your eyes!
• Hair does dry out up in the sky; a silicone serum spray can instantaneously put shine back in your hair and make it feel soft and silky. Garnier Fructis Brilliantine Shine Glossing Spray, $4.99 for 3 ounces, is perfect and can get through security, too.
• For more detailed information about security at the airport, check out www.tsa.gov, especially their travel assistant section. This is a thorough and easy-to-navigate site.

What you absolutely don’t need to do:

• Don’t spray your face with water; what a waste of time! Water isn’t moisturizing, it just evaporates and leaves your skin feeling drier. What your skin needs is to keep the natural water content (which is about 30%) and healthy substances in skin so it feels soft, smooth, and looks radiant. Using a brilliant skin-care routine will get you through life anywhere you are.
• If you are flying first class or business, don’t use the hot face cloth they hand you on your face. I never recommend steaming the face (heat can cause spider veins to surface and create irritation).
• Don’t pack aerosols because they can drain out under the pressure of traveling at 30,000 feet up in the air.
• Don’t pack pumps that don’t lock down. They will leak.
• Some caps come loose no matter what you do. If you are packing a particularly greasy item put it in a separate plastic bag.
• Don’t pack full sizes of your skin-care or hair-care products in your checked luggage. Travel kits are the best. You can find them in drugstores, online, and Paula’s Choice will be launching one this fall!

Nail care can be easy. Here are some basic tips The Cosmetics Cop Team covered during our Online Radio show on Thursday, July 8.

The basics:
• It’s important to keep in mind that nails are dead.
• Nails and hair are made of the same type of cells.
• Nails absorb as much water as hair, so over-soaking nails can be the start of many problems.
• It is difficult to keep polish on, no matter whose you buy.
• Expensive nail-care products are NOT better than inexpensive ones; wasting money on nail care won’t help your nails or your budget.
• Fingernails take 4 to 6 months to regrow; toenails take a year to 18 months.
• There is no specific supplement other than a healthy diet to improve nail growth.

Yellow nails — Usually caused from wearing very dark or deep nail polish, such as red shades. Be sure to wear one or two coats of a great base coat. If you still have the problem, gently buff the top of the nail and then soak for a minute or two in 3% hydrogen peroxide that you can buy at the drugstore for $1. Of course, be sure it isn’t a more serious nail problem.

What to do about cuticles? — Use a cuticle remover. The most effective I’ve found is Be Natural Cuticle Eliminator ($5.99), it isn’t natural in the least, but it works. You can find it at www.sallybeauty.com. Just be careful, don’t leave it on for too long. Wipe it off and then gently push the cuticle back and nip off the free edge only. Do NOT nip into the cuticle, only the free dead edge; it is better to under-do it than over-do it.

Calluses on heels — Keep a pedicure file in your shower or bath and scrub over your heel every time you shower. It helps to apply Be Natural Dry Heel Eliminator ($9.99) at www.sallybeauty.com. Then apply a urea-based moisturizer, Paula’s Choice Body Butter, or Paula’s Choice Skin Revealing Body Lotion with 10% AHA. Callus shavers are risky, but if you want to do this step do it at home. Do not have the nail salon do it for you. Most salons do not change the blades for each person and that means a possible transfer of blood or bacteria that can penetrate skin.

Ingrown nails — DO NOT cut the nail below the top corner of the cuticle! This will make a world of difference. If you are still having the problem then you need to see a good podiatrist.

Nails that grow and split or have a strange shape — This is usually a result of trauma from bad manicures, fake nails, slamming your fingers in a car door, or nail biting. Once the trauma stops, if after a year it isn’t better, the nail plate has been permanently damaged and there is nothing you can do to fix the problem.

Ridges in the nails — This can be just a part of how your nail grows, but it could also be from continued damage to the base of the nail from picking at your cuticles or pushing them back too far. Avoid over-cutting or picking at your cuticle, and it could start growing back perfectly.

Products claiming to strengthen nails with nourishing ingredients — Stop wasting your money on these! Other than coating nails, as with any polish or wearing fake nails, there is nothing that can strengthen nails. Ingredients like calcium, marine extracts, vitamins, protein, and on and on are absurd, useless gimmicks thrown into nail products leading you to believe the impossible. These companies are lying, don’t get sucked in.

Nail polish remover — Acetone is the best option. It is actually a natural substance and works faster than non-acetone nail polish removers, so it is in less contact with the nail and skin; there is nothing safer about non-acetone nail polish removers.

Keep nail polish on — Don’t over-soak your nails before applying polish (they absorb more water than you think), wear one or two layers of top coat, keep your natural nails short, and wear gloves when doing house work, dishes, or working in the garden. I don’t like the big yellow gloves, so I use disposable medical gloves and they work great. You can find these at any drugstore.

Make polish last– Be sure to dry out the nail with acetone or alcohol before you apply the polish. Do apply a base coat and top coat over the color polish you choose. DO NOT dry nails with any kind of heat, they will peel. Every other day apply a new layer of top coat and if you nail does chip, reapply the color and top coat over the nail.

Toss out old polish– Do not put nail polish in the refrigerator. It’s a myth that should have died a long time ago. Polish only gets thicker in cold temperatures. Just like paint, when nail polish dries out, it is time to toss it. Thinners sort of work, but overall they change the texture of the polish for the worse!

Nail fungus — Check with your doctor, but topically-applied miconazole nitrate (No Miss Antifungal Fungus Killer, $9) can help, but you may need an oral medication that contains that ingredient.

Soften cuticles all day long — Any thick, emollient moisturizer will make a huge difference if you apply it frequently. Keep one in your purse. There are lots of options, but Paula’s Choice Lip Recovery Balm or our Cuticle and Nail Treatment are great.

Peeling nails — Gently, and I mean really gently, buff the part where there is peeling. It is also essential to keep nails short.

Bubbles in polish — This is caused from either using old polish, too much polish, or using a fan to dry your nails with too much wind.

A Facebook fan of ours wanted to know more about how I develop Paula’s Choice products from concept to the final version, ready to be launched. They also wanted to know how my process is different from the way other companies create beauty products. I have to say, I love this question!

It is astonishing even to me how incredibly different my product development methodology is from other cosmetic companies’.

Creating new products and improving our current formulations is my passion and it has been my life’s work. Every product is my achievement or concept and I personally oversee the formula from every perspective. That alone is rare.

There are no owners or formulators for cosmetic companies who have spent the past 30 years writing 18 books on skin care and makeup. Most of the people developing skin-care products either don’t take the time or they don’t know how to evaluate a peer-review scientific study.

Many of the scientists who work for cosmetic companies are not penetrating past the claims of one product, or they don’t actually understand or are involved in an entire skin-care routine. You only have to look at the vast number of products in jar packaging, or that contain alcohol among other notorious irritants, or are antiquated formulations; for some reason this still shocks me.

My team and I always obsess over:

1. What the research says about the ingredients we want to use.
2. Analyze what the actual overall benefit to skin will be for a specific skin type or concern based on published research and then on our own clinical panel testing.
3. How it compares to other products (if I can’t make it far better and sell it at a more reasonable price than other cosmetic companies, we won’t make it).
4. Most importantly, it must work within a framework of superior skin care (gentle cleansers, toners loaded with “bio-active” ingredients, sunscreens enhanced with antioxidants, moisturizers and serums containing substances that repair skin and fend off environmental damage, effective exfoliants—not scrubs which tear at skin, etc).

What makes our process different is basically the following:

1. I have a unique concept of skin care based on published research about different skin-care concerns ranging from acne to rosacea, wrinkles, sensitive skin, oily skin, and dry skin, etc. Most cosmetic companies don’t approach skin care in a cohesive, systematic fashion; they follow trends or an exotic ingredient they can build a story around.
2. We never jump on bandwagons. Just because apple tree stem cells or ingredients claiming to work like Botox are being thrown into moisturizers, I would never include it simply because it would make for good ad copy or a fashion magazine editor would think it was new and different. The research must be there to support adding it to a formula.
3.  My fundamental philosophy is to never harm skin: Irritation and inflammation is bad for skin. There is no contradictory evidence on this one. Other companies throw in known irritants ALL the time because it sounds natural or they just don’t know what they are doing.
4. In the world of cosmetics most product development people are in the marketing department (that never fails to kill me). They decide they will be able to build a story around some new ingredient and then give that information to the chemists and a new product is born. That process has nothing to do with skin care.
5. Because my team and I have reviewed thousands of products and have spent every day poring over published research about skin, we know up close and personal what hundreds of other brands are creating and understand their formulations. We have a bird’s eye view of the industry and we can avoid formulary mistakes and can discern formulary excellence from every angle.

I’ll never forget the time when my product development manager, Kate Mee, and I met with a prominent cosmetic lab down in California (they did work for many of the major cosmetic companies). We sat around the table with three of their cosmetic chemists, two of the owners of the lab, and two of their main sales representatives. When we began discussing the formulas they had been working on for us, they were taken aback at the research we had done and the meticulous detail we went through to evaluate the ingredients.

I said, “Doesn’t every cosmetic company you work with do this?”
They said, “None of them do this.”
I said, “Then what do they do?”

Their response was that they “talk marketing ideas and what star ingredient they want the product to contain, or how the product should smell, or what natural ingredients we can put in it, but never research and definitely not an analysis of every ingredient.”

I said, “But if the product is for acne and they don’t have acne, or if the product is for dry skin and they don’t have dry skin, why would they try it?”

Their response: “They don’t really care about the ingredient deck. The people we meet with are from the marketing team; they don’t know anything about the science of skin, skin problems, or cosmetic chemistry. They care about appearance and how they can sell the product.”

Geesh! That was one of the most eye opening experiences of my career. I have written extensively about what can and can’t benefit skin. As new research comes to light we change or improve what we do. As new requests come in from our readers or customers we examine how we can meet those needs—often we can, but often we can’t. What we will never do is pretend a product can do more than what is possible. All of this adds up to skin care you can trust, whether it is from my product line or from other cosmetic companies’ products we recommend on Beautypedia.com.