One of the journals Paula and I routinely read to keep up on the latest research-driven, peer-reviewed skin-care trends is Cosmetic Dermatology. The August issue featured a review of light-based treatments for acne, and it was a great piece with helpful information worth passing on.

Although light-emitting diodes (LED) with either red or blue bulbs show promise, those with acne need to know that they are absolutely not the first or even the best option. Light-emitting treatments for acne should be considered a second line of defense and as with any treatment for skin, there are pros and cons. 

The research shows that LED (from either blue or red lights) is best utilized as part of a comprehensive system with other proven anti-acne products. By “proven,” we mean products that include benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid, the cornerstones of Paula’s Choice CLEAR 3-Step System and other anti-acne products we recommend on Beautypedia. Those two gold standard anti-acne ingredients work for a large percentage of people fighting mild to moderate acne, either as teens or adults. 

If you want to consider LED treatments, here’s what the article in Cosmetic Dermatology summarized for the two most popular types of light therapy for acne-prone skin:

Blue Light Therapy

How it Works: Specific wavelengths of blue light target the strain of bacteria that play a pivotal role in causing acne. The light causes the development of oxygen radicals that kill P. acnes bacteria without damaging healthy skin.

Pros: Proven to kill acne-causing bacteria; best for mild to moderate inflammatory acne; reduced potential for side effects (such as dryness or peeling) that can occur with benzoyl peroxide products; a worthwhile option for those whose skin cannot tolerate topical disinfectants; pain-free, no downtime.

Cons: Requires multiple treatments, as many as 4 per week; expensive (averaging $40 per treatment), with results comparable to what you can achieve at home using a product medicated with 5% benzoyl peroxide (such as Paula’s Choice CLEAR Extra Strength Acne Fighting Treatment); LED treatments are not effective for cystic acne, blackheads, or whiteheads (milia); long-term results are unknown.

Device Names: ClearLight Acne Photoclearing System; Blu-U; Omnilux Blue (available outside the United States).

Red Light Therapy

How it Works: Specific wavelengths of red light target the skin’s oil glands and reduce cytokines, a class of pro-inflammatory substances believed to play a role in chronic acne. May also help improve skin’s barrier function by improving its ability to retain key elements it needs to heal; is believed to stimulate healthy collagen production. 

Pros: Also helps reduce signs of aging (though the results are subtle), so can be a better choice for those struggling with acne and wrinkles; minimal risk of side effects, especially when used without light-activating chemicals; no downtime.

Cons: Requires multiple treatments; not as well researched as Blue Light Therapy; does not affect acne-causing bacteria; long-term results are unknown; costs can vary from $50–$200 or more per treatment, depending on the device and treatment protocol your dermatologist prefers.

Device Names: Acnelamp (emits red and blue light, a combination that may prove even more helpful for acne than either light used alone); Omnilux Revive.

What about at-home light-emitting devices for clearing acne? For the most part, due to concerns over lawsuits, manufacturers of these devices are forced to limit their intensity. You’ll see red and/or blue lights emitting from the device, but the intensity is much less than the machines your dermatologist uses. In a sense, that’s good news because it is possible to overdo these treatments and consumers could end up damaging their skin, which is never the goal. Moreover, both of these light-emitting devices require protective eyewear. The wavelengths they emit can damage unprotected eyes, and if you don’t remember to protect your eyes at home with the higher intensity output you would be risking your sight.

Bottom line: LED treatments are an option after other topical medications haven’t worked. Just keep in mind that benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, and tretinoin (a prescription-only topical medication), along with other medical options are the first things you should consider. My strong personal feeling is that given the expense, and that most health insurance plans do not cover LED treatments for acne, they are last in line for dealing with acne.