November 22, 2010

The Beauty of Being On Time

Author: Daynah Burnett, Cosmetics Cop Team Contributor

snoozePunctuality is a virtue, but it’s also an absolute expectation in the professional world. No matter how beautiful your makeup looks or how stylishly your outfit is put together, it’s really all for naught if you arrive to work late!

To that end, streamlining my morning routine has become an obsession. (No surprise to me—my family has always joked that I am “The Efficiency Expert.” And it’s true: If there seems to be a faster, better, or more convenient way to get something done, then I’ve probably tried it.) My years spent as a busy working mother and grad student have yielded some tried-and-true tricks that I rely on every day to make sure I look great and still arrive on time, wherever I’m headed.

I hope that one or more of these tips will help you, too!

  • Pick out your entire outfit the night before. This means assembling your entire ensemble: coat, earrings, socks—everything! Don’t let your morning get hijacked as you scramble to pick out the perfect necklace. You can do all of this the night before, and you’ll undoubtedly look more put together the next day. My kids love to help me pick out my clothes, and it sets a good example for them as they learn to dress for themselves and develop their own sense of style!
  • Do your non-essential or pampering skin-care treatments at night. Adding extra products to your morning routine means extra time spent waiting for them to absorb. Cleansing, toning, and a liberal application of broad-spectrum SPF 15 or higher sunscreen really is all you need in the morning. Unless I’m treating a breakout, I exfoliate before I go to bed—and wake up with glowing skin! I also use my evenings to touch up my nails, tweeze my brows, and tend to any other beauty details that will slow everything down in the AM.
  • Keep a clock in your bathroom, but not your cell phone! Not only is the moisture in the bathroom damaging to your phone (and can activate your phone’s moisture indicator, which voids the warranty), but you can easily get sidetracked by texting or emailing while you should be getting ready. Put your phone in your briefcase or purse—and leave it there!
  • Brush your teeth in the shower. You’re already there, so why not? Instead of wasting water while I let the conditioner sit on my hair, I brush my teeth. But, always remember to cleanse your face right after you brush so there’s no risk of skin irritation from toothpaste residue (I learned this the hard way). I usually wash my face while I’m rinsing the conditioner out of my hair—talk about multi-tasking!
  • Choose multi-tasking products. Using a well-formulated tinted moisturizer with sunscreen can save you so much time and money! You’ll get coverage, hydration, and sun protection, all in one. Paula’s Choice Barely There Sheer Matte Tint SPF 20 and Laura Mercier’s Illuminating Tinted Moisturizer SPF 20 are two of my favorites. (Browse Beautypedia.com to discover your own.)
  • Don’t experiment with a new makeup look or new products. Save that fun for the weekend. Adding a new makeup look can take time—and what if it doesn’t look good? You’ll have to start all over….
  • Keep your makeup routine simple. This one speaks for itself—but if there’s one thing I’ve learned it’s that staying on schedule means keeping it simple!

Do you have any of your own time-saving beauty tips? I’d love to hear any clever ways that you’ve learned to save yourself time in the morning!

5 CommentsCategories: Daynah Burnett, Makeup, Other, Products, Skin Care, Uncategorized Tags: , , , ,
November 18, 2010

Tales from the Dermatologist

Author: Bryan Barron, Cosmetics Cop Team Contributor

Tales from the DermatologistI recently visited my dermatologist for an annual skin cancer check. Having fair skin and being of northern European descent (not to mention getting a few bad sunburns as a kid), this is a visit I make at least once each year. My partner, who normally avoids doctors like a dieter avoids dessert, surprised me when he asked if he could make an appointment, too. He wanted to have his skin checked out and had some other concerns as well. This could get interesting….

When I asked what inspired him, he replied, “Well, I’m not getting any younger and I want to look good for you as long as I can!” I assured him that what keeps us together has little to do with looks (although I’m not denying that he is really adorable), and made another appointment.

Surprisingly, the dermatologist had back-to-back openings, so we went in together and spent almost an hour with her. She did a thorough skin exam on me and didn’t see anything suspicious, but she found a suspicious mole on my partner’s back and went ahead and removed it. You may wonder what made her suspicious of the mole. The biggest clue was that the mole was considerably darker than any other mole in the area. It also had an uneven border rather than a smooth border. As it turned out, the biopsy revealed that the mole was benign, but better safe than sorry!

I was sure that after that, my partner would be ready to bolt (needles and scalpels make him queasy), but he just sat up and pointed out several other areas of cosmetic concern, asking what could be done for each.

The dermatologist was excellent: patient, honest, and matter-of-fact. I was done with my appointment, but my partner asked me to stay in the exam room with him, saying “you know all the big medical words to use and can talk about this skin stuff without sounding dumb.” That was enough for me, so I stayed put. The dermatologist pointed out two patches of actinic keratosis (a precursor to skin cancer and 100% caused by sun damage) on his face, and I watched as he had these sun-damaged areas treated with liquid nitrogen. She was thrilled to hear that both of us apply sunscreen daily (Paula’s Choice, of course)!

Next, the dermatologist lanced and drained the contents of some whiteheads (milia) on his forehead, which he said hurt more than he was letting on (such a brave guy!), and then she zapped some broken capillaries with an electric needle. Using an electric needle for this process is a dated technology (lasers and light-emitting devices are considered more effective, but they also cost a lot more per treatment), but it’s a good option to consider before moving on to “the big guns,” just to see how the red spots respond. In this case, one spot responded really well, the other only saw a 50% reduction.

I was fascinated by the whole sequence of events, even though I’ve had these procedures performed or had researched them in the past. Watching it being done, rather than being the one getting poked and zapped, was a transfixing experience.

Afterward, looking a bit blotchy from the facial treatments and bandaged from the mole removal, he declared “It wasn’t so bad after all.” In fact, on the ride home, he surprised me, proclaiming, “I think that after going through all this, I’m ready for some Botox!” Does he need Botox? As far as I’m concerned, no, but I’m also aware that his forehead lines bother him. So, if he wants to get Botox, I’m not going to stand in his way. Apparently, he won’t be standing in his own way anymore, either!

10 CommentsCategories: Bryan Barron, Other, Skin Care, Uncategorized Tags: , , , ,
November 15, 2010

Silly Studies in Skin Care

Author: Daynah Burnett, Cosmetics Cop Team Contributor

Silly Studies in Skin CareAs part of The Cosmetics Cop Team, I constantly browse medical journals, read study summaries, and look for the latest in peer-reviewed (meaning legitimate) skin-care research. Hype-driven product marketing often relies on biased in-house studies, which can appear very persuasive, but Paula and the Cosmetics Cop Team rely only on published, third-party research to substantiate our reviews and the research we cite for all Paula’s Choice products. I take this part of my job very seriously, and given my background in academia, I also quite enjoy it.

My favorite part of this work, however, is coming across bizarre studies that I can’t believe anyone ever took the time to dream up. Every time I think I’ve seen the strangest one, I encounter another that’s even stranger, or perhaps one that just doesn’t seem to have any purpose whatsoever. Some sound more like elementary school science fair entries than medical studies. Either way, for your amusement, I share with you some of the sillier studies I’ve found recently.

  • Pop your pimples while you ovulate. This study (from a group that must have little else to do) measured the size of facial pores during ovulation. They asserted that if you time the extraction of your premenstrual acne comedones with ovulation, at which time your pores are slightly larger, you will increase “facial attractiveness, well-being, social function and thereby decrease psychological stress.” They want you to actually time ovulation? Really? Well, that never worked for birth control, and it sure doesn’t work for acne!
  • Expression lines predetermine wrinkles. It’s tempting to file this one under “Duh.” This 8-year study found that, all else being equal, “the pattern of expression lines predicts the pattern of future persistent wrinkles.” So, the smile lines and crow’s-feet that appear when your face is animated is essentially a wrinkle blueprint…. And that took them 8 years to determine?! They could have called us (or a lot of other folks) for the answer and saved lab time for something meaningful.
  • Young women are better at guessing age. 20 men and 28 women, ages 22 to 64, were asked to guess the age of Caucasian women after viewing a series of nearly 200 different facial photographs. The study concluded that the women under 35 guessed the ages most accurately. Well, we can all sleep better now knowing that! Can you imagine anything more useless to study?
  • Men have larger pores. This study assessed the relationship between sebum production and pore size. It turns out that the more oil you produce, the larger your pore gets, sort of like the more calories you store, the more you weigh. But, this study made an additional conclusion: being male is associated with larger pores, which is like saying that being male is associated with larger feet. On average, men are larger than women, pores and all!

As easy as it is to poke fun at some of this research, I know that for every needless study conducted to confirm common sense, there are dozens more that are making huge strides in the science of aging and skin care. Thanks to universities and medical labs all over the world, Paula and The Cosmetics Cop Team have the facts we need to formulate state-of-the-art Paula’s Choice skin-care products and to educate consumers about the products they use (or are thinking of using) on Beautypedia. Now that’s real progress!

2 CommentsCategories: Behind the Scenes at PC, Daynah Burnett, Other, Products, Skin Care, Uncategorized Tags: , , , ,
November 10, 2010

Shopping for a Dermatologist

Author: Paula Begoun

Shopping for a DermatologistRecently one of our Paula’s Choice Facebook fans wrote in wanting to know what I thought of the Accent XL, a laser treatment system hyped as “the ultimate painless non-surgical facelift!” She was skeptical of the claims being made but found them interesting, and of course her friends were enthusiastic, so she wanted to know whether this machine was something to consider.

My STRONG advice: NEVER shop for any type of laser, light, radio wave, or any kind of machine a dermatologist can use on your face. NEVER shop for a specific type of dermal filler such as Restylane, Hyaluron, or Artefill. You must only shop for a great dermatologist! Period.

This is such a common trap people fall into when they search the Internet for the best cosmetic treatments. It’s easy to be lured in when you see a certain product being heavily promoted, endorsed by a celebrity, or featured in a magazine, but that is not research—it is simply clever, misleading, and often borderline deceptive marketing from the company selling it.

In the case of Accent XL, this machine isn’t the ultimate, it isn’t the best, it isn’t well researched in comparison to dozens of other options, and it certainly isn’t painless. Despite attempts to convince you otherwise, there is no single machine that does it all or is the best.

In fact, there are over 100 different machines a dermatologist can use to reduce wrinkles, lighten skin discolorations, help firm skin, and remove surfaced capillaries. They all have different pros and cons for different skin types and skin color that only your dermatologist can speak to. The key is finding a great dermatologist who can determine which options are best for your skin.

So how do you find a great dermatologist?

  1. Start by asking around to see if any of your friends have had great experiences with the dermatologist they see. While relying on someone else’s experience isn’t foolproof, it is a good way to narrow down the options.
  2. Make sure your dermatologist is board certified. You wouldn’t want a podiatrist working on your face, would you? Doctors of any background can perform cosmetic corrective procedures, but you want one who has been specifically trained to work in your area of need. Visit the American Board of Dermatology to find out if your dermatologist is board certified.
  3. Don’t be afraid to ask questions. Not all dermatologists will come up with the same game plan for your face, so pay attention to what makes you feel the most comfortable and makes sense to you in light of the research you have done. It never hurts to ask how much experience they have, either.

Even though I have wonderful products that can give you great results and truly improve your skin, all skin-care products have certain limitations. Laser treatments and other cosmetic corrective procedures can bring your skin back to a younger-looking, more radiant state often overnight or in just a few weeks. Considering these options is far more valuable to your face than wasting money on skin-care products making false promises.

Having a great cosmetic dermatologist can make all the difference, so forget about finding the right machine—find the right doc!

10 CommentsCategories: Other, Paula Begoun, Products, Skin Care, Uncategorized Tags: , , , , ,
November 8, 2010

Vintage Makeup: A Love Story

Author: Daynah Burnett, Cosmetics Cop Team Contributor

Vintage Makeup: A Love Story Before the fall weather took hold of Seattle, I decided to hit my favorite flea market to get one last fix of vintage oddities at bargain prices. Looking through the hodgepodge of goods, I came across an antique Revlon rouge compact that I estimated to be from the late ’40s or early ’50s. It was beautiful: made of a heavy gold metal, the round compact had an art-deco design and Revlon inscribed across it—a far cry from the plastic Revlon compacts in drugstores today! I couldn’t control the urge to open it, and to my surprise the product housed inside was still in great condition. The compact held a bright cream blush called Clear Red, as well as a tiny, tattered puff applicator. I smeared a little bit of the blush on the back of my hand, and even more surprisingly, the blue-based red hue transferred and blended well!

Perhaps it’s because I’m surrounded by makeup at work, but these pigments had me enchanted—they were so distinctively retro and unlike anything I see in stores today. And there’s a good reason for that: Cosmetic regulations in the ’70s delisted certain red dyes that had the most amazing depth of color, staying power, and creamy lush consistency. Regrettably, more recently developed cosmetic color additives just haven’t come close to the classic shades that came before. Nevertheless, what I find compelling about vintage makeup is how it utilizes a handful of products in rich but basic shades to create nearly universally, timeless, and flattering looks. To me, it really proves that the classics are always beautiful.

Now with the proliferation of period TV like Mad Men and Boardwalk Empire, and the ever-expanding list of celebrities like Gwen Stefani, Katy Perry, and Dita von Teese who don retro-inspired fashion, my preoccupation with vintage makeup has officially eclipsed my interest in chasing the latest trends. I’m now turning to the stunning looks of the past for beauty inspiration. I’m fortunate to have a face and personality that can pull off retro styles—I have big eyes, pale skin, round cheeks and a strong cupid’s bow mouth—and perhaps a soul that’s a bit on the sentimental side.

That said, I still keep my more stylized makeup designs mostly confined to evenings and weekends. Instead, for daytime I try to incorporate a subtle element or two of retro-ness, without it looking like I’m headed to a costume party. To that end, I’m always on the lookout for makeup that will translate as vintage—because I’m not putting a 60-year old, unregulated cosmetic on my face, no matter how much I love the shade! Here are some of my favorites:

  • Tarte Cheek Stain in “Blissful” ($30)—A gorgeous apricot blush that isn’t too heavy when paired with a dark, winged lashline.
  • Stila Eyeshadow Pan in “Kitten” ($18)—A versatile ivory/beige shimmer.
  • Cover Girl Outlast Lip Stain in “Plum Pout” ($5.99)—This is not plum on me at all, rather a bright, true red that dries matte and lasts for hours.
  • Paula’s Choice Healthy Finish Pressed Powder SPF 15 ($14.95)—If you want to go retro, you have to go matte! This powder has added broad-spectrum SPF and not a fleck of shimmer.
  • Prestige Liquid Eyeliner in Black ($9.99)—I adore the old-school inkwell packaging, and it dries matte and doesn’t budge.
  • Paula’s Choice BROWlistic ($9.95)—Vintage-inspired ladies have gorgeous full brows! This baby helps me fill in sparse spots without looking drawn-on.

If you love these vintage-inspired looks as much as I do, share with me your favorite styles or products!

11 CommentsCategories: Daynah Burnett, Makeup, Products, Uncategorized Tags: , , , , , , ,
November 3, 2010

6 Things Your Stylist Should Stop Doing To Your Hair

Author: Paula Begoun

6 Things Your Stylist Should Stop Doing To Your HairI know I’m going to get flack for what I’m about to write as I’m sitting here getting my hair done, but here it is: There are many hairstylists who seem to have no idea what they are doing. It’s not that they don’t know how to cut, style, and dye your hair beautifully, but they seem not to care about the details or how you are feeling about what they’re doing to your hair.

Many women feel this way because they’ve told me in hundreds of letters over the years, and they also tell me they are afraid to tell their stylist what they’re doing wrong or what they are experiencing when getting their hair done. It is definitely true for me. But why are so many of us afraid of our hairdresser? Because we are at their mercy, especially if we like the way they do our hair. We think if we upset our stylist we will be punished with a bad haircut, a bad hairstyle, or just a pissy attitude for the rest of the service and the next time we come back. It isn’t fun getting a reputation as being a bad (or, if you prefer, “high maintenance”) client at the salon you frequent.

I know there are difficult women who are demanding, rude, have unrealistic expectations, and are all-around hard to deal with.  To a large extent, stylists have to put up with all kinds of terrible behavior from clients like this. However, if you’re sure your behavior is well-intentioned rather than off-the-charts rude, then you are in a perfect position to take charge of your experience in your stylist’s chair. If a stylist is going to take your money for doing your hair, then it isn’t too much to ask for the following:

1. Have an oily scalp? Tell your stylist to skip applying conditioner to the roots of your hair. No matter what the claim on the product or how much menthol or eucalyptus it contains (which has no benefit for hair or scalp) it will just make your oily scalp feel greasy faster. Conditioners contain emollients which are great for hair but a problem for someone with an oily scalp.

Have fine hair that needs body? Conditioners can be a problem if you want your hair to be full because conditioners, even the lightest ones, can weigh down hair. Keep in mind hair nearest the scalp is the healthiest and doesn’t need a conditioner anyway. It isn’t until hair grows and is tortured by styling tools, sun, too-frequent shampooing, and hair dye that it starts getting damaged and needs conditioner to act and feel more like normal, undamaged hair.

2. Ask them to please not be so rough on your hair. Here’s what happens: You’ve just gotten done with a wonderful shampoo and then to dry your hair, the stylist or assistant takes the towel and begins to roughly rub it over your entire head and the length of your hair. This is a BIG no-no. Any kind of friction over your tresses breaks down the hair shaft, eventually causing split ends and breakage. They’re supposed to press, dab, and squeeze to dry the hair—not rub it around. If more stylists (or their assistants) did this, they would spend less time smoothing damaged, unruly hair when it’s time to style it.

3. Only comb wet hair in sections; don’t try to get a brush through tangled hair in one fell swoop. Combing hair in small sections is far better for the hair and your scalp. The problem? Some stylists just plow through your hair without a thought to what they are doing. Maybe they don’t know how hard it is on the scalp and the hair to try and undo tangles by yanking on your hair. Using fingers to gently separate hair and comb through each section is the healthy way to start the styling process.

4. Stop pulling and tugging during heat-styling. When your hair is being styled, too many hairdressers pull and tug at your hair with no regard for the discomfort they are causing. Once, when I cringed and winced at the forceful blow dry I was getting, the stylist actually said, “Boy aren’t you sensitive!” and continued doing just what she was doing. I finally said, “You’re hurting me and boy you are being completely insensitive! Please stop pulling so hard!”

5. Don’t hold the blow dryer so close to the scalp. Blow dryers heat up to almost 400 degrees Fahrenheit. As an idea of how hot that really is, consider that the boiling point of water is 212 degrees Fahrenheit. When such intense heat gets too close to your scalp, you can easily get a burn and lose some hair as a result.

6. Stop pushing expensive ”special” hair treatments that they tell you everyone swears by (not sure who everyone is, but popularity is a great incentive to believe something must be worthwhile). You are then put under the hair dryer while being told it will restructure your hair, which it absolutely cannot do! Oh, and they charge you $35 for the service. What a waste of money. If you knew how to read the ingredient list, you would see the ingredients don’t differ from what almost all conditioners contain. Hair is dead and you can’t feed it, repair it, or restructure it with any ingredient or allegedly special formula. All you can do is make it feel repaired. Although that helps, once you wash your hair again—unless you use a conditioner again—your hair will not feel the way you want. That’s because the product the stylist raved about “everyone loving” absolutely could not repair your hair!

17 CommentsCategories: Hair Care, Other, Paula Begoun, Products, Uncategorized Tags: , , , ,
November 1, 2010

The Case Against Eye Creams

Author: Cosmetics Cop Team Members Paula Begoun and Bryan Barron

The Case Against Eye CreamsAlmost every cosmetics company you can think of sells at least one eye cream and many sell more than a dozen, yet no one needs a product specifically labeled as an eye cream! The cosmetics industry has done an outstanding job convincing women eye creams are essential to eliminate everything from wrinkles to sagging skin, dark circles, and puffiness around the eye.  We’re here to tell you to call off the search, it is wasting your time and money! Surprised? Read on!

Here are the facts:

  • There is no research proving that the skin around the eye area needs something different from skin elsewhere on the face.
  • There are no cosmetic ingredients that change dark circles under the eye or get rid of sagging, puffy eyes, or crow’s feet (these lines show up on the face and the eye area, which makes all the theories about eye creams even more foolish).
  • What you get when you buy an eye cream is a small amount of product (often half the size of a face product) that, ounce for ounce, is twice as expensive.
  • Eye creams are often sold as being gentle and fragrance-free, so they’re “safe for the delicate eye area.” So, in essence, you are being told the eye area gets the good ingredients and the face gets the bad ones. The entire face needs to be treated gently and not exposed to irritating ingredients. More to the point, most eye creams DO contain fragrance AND coloring agents!
  • Most eye creams are packaged in jars and that is a problem because as soon as you open the jar, the beneficial ingredients (assuming there are some in the formula) begin to deteriorate due to light and air exposure. It’s also unsanitary to dip your fingers into a jar every day!
  • No one in the cosmetics industry (ingredient manufacturers, salespeople, or cosmetic chemists) has ever explained exactly what ingredients the eye area needs that the face doesn’t when it comes to dry skin, wrinkles, puffy eyes, or sagging skin—and we’ve asked hundreds of people over the years!
  • If a “face” product is well formulated for dry skin and fighting wrinkles, you can use it anywhere on the face and beyond.

There are many myths about why you need eye creams, but that is just what they are, myths. Day after day, week after week, year after year we are constantly told “I’ve tried everything to get rid of [insert eye-area concern here],” and yet the problem persists. Of course it persists; these products cannot work as claimed, and you’re being mislead and wasting your money, time and time again.

We’re not saying you don’t need a brilliantly formulated moisturizer for around the eye area; it just doesn’t need to be labeled an eye cream with a higher price tag than the accompanying face product. Here are some brilliant examples of products that can and should be used around your eyes:

  • BeautiControl Cell Block-C New Cell Protection SPF 20 ($31)
  • CeraVe Facial Moisturizing Lotion PM ($13.99)
  • Clinique Super Rescue Antioxidant Night Moisturizer ($42.50; available  in three versions for different skin types).
  • *Olay Pro-X  Deep Wrinkle Treatment ($47) or Olay Total Effects 7-in-1 Anti-Aging Moisturizer Mature Skin Therapy ($18.99)
  • Paula’s Choice Moisture Boost Hydrating Treatment Cream ($18.95)
  • Paula’s Choice RESIST Barrier Repair Moisturizer ($22.95)
  • Paula’s Choice Skin Recovery Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum ($24.95)
  • SkinMedica Rejuvenative Moisturizer ($50)
  • Vichy Reti-C Intensive Corrective Care ($30)
  • Yes to Carrots Daily Facial Moisturizer with SPF 15 ($14.99)

*The Pro-X product has a creamy texture (more like an eye cream) while the Total Effects product has a thinner, lotion texture.

For an extensive list of the best antiaging products, including moisturizers that do double-duty as eye creams, visit CosmeticsCop.com and click on the link to our product reviews on Beautypedia. During the entire month of January, everyone can enjoy FREE access to Paula Begoun and The Cosmetics Cop Team’s extensive database of product review!

Tips for dealing with dark circles:

  • First, stop searching for an eye cream claiming to eliminate dark circles; none of them work as claimed.
  • Use sunscreen daily to keep circles from becoming darker.
  • Apply a good concealer to lighten and brighten the undereye area.

For more tips on dealing with dark circles, click here.

Tips for dealing with puffy eyes:

  • Many cases of puffy eyes are due to allergies; taking an over-the-counter antihistamine can help a lot (be sure you check with your physician before adding a new medication to your routine).
  • Try sleeping with your head slightly elevated to minimize undereye swelling
  • Keep cool compresses (such as a gel eye mask) ready to reduce morning puffiness

For more tips on dealing with puffy eyes, click here.

34 CommentsCategories: Bryan Barron, Other, Products, Skin Care, Uncategorized Tags: , , , ,