I recently visited my dermatologist for an annual skin cancer check. Having fair skin and being of northern European descent (not to mention getting a few bad sunburns as a kid), this is a visit I make at least once each year. My partner, who normally avoids doctors like a dieter avoids dessert, surprised me when he asked if he could make an appointment, too. He wanted to have his skin checked out and had some other concerns as well. This could get interesting….

When I asked what inspired him, he replied, “Well, I’m not getting any younger and I want to look good for you as long as I can!” I assured him that what keeps us together has little to do with looks (although I’m not denying that he is really adorable), and made another appointment.

Surprisingly, the dermatologist had back-to-back openings, so we went in together and spent almost an hour with her. She did a thorough skin exam on me and didn’t see anything suspicious, but she found a suspicious mole on my partner’s back and went ahead and removed it. You may wonder what made her suspicious of the mole. The biggest clue was that the mole was considerably darker than any other mole in the area. It also had an uneven border rather than a smooth border. As it turned out, the biopsy revealed that the mole was benign, but better safe than sorry!

I was sure that after that, my partner would be ready to bolt (needles and scalpels make him queasy), but he just sat up and pointed out several other areas of cosmetic concern, asking what could be done for each.

The dermatologist was excellent: patient, honest, and matter-of-fact. I was done with my appointment, but my partner asked me to stay in the exam room with him, saying “you know all the big medical words to use and can talk about this skin stuff without sounding dumb.” That was enough for me, so I stayed put. The dermatologist pointed out two patches of actinic keratosis (a precursor to skin cancer and 100% caused by sun damage) on his face, and I watched as he had these sun-damaged areas treated with liquid nitrogen. She was thrilled to hear that both of us apply sunscreen daily (Paula’s Choice, of course)!

Next, the dermatologist lanced and drained the contents of some whiteheads (milia) on his forehead, which he said hurt more than he was letting on (such a brave guy!), and then she zapped some broken capillaries with an electric needle. Using an electric needle for this process is a dated technology (lasers and light-emitting devices are considered more effective, but they also cost a lot more per treatment), but it’s a good option to consider before moving on to “the big guns,” just to see how the red spots respond. In this case, one spot responded really well, the other only saw a 50% reduction.

I was fascinated by the whole sequence of events, even though I’ve had these procedures performed or had researched them in the past. Watching it being done, rather than being the one getting poked and zapped, was a transfixing experience.

Afterward, looking a bit blotchy from the facial treatments and bandaged from the mole removal, he declared “It wasn’t so bad after all.” In fact, on the ride home, he surprised me, proclaiming, “I think that after going through all this, I’m ready for some Botox!” Does he need Botox? As far as I’m concerned, no, but I’m also aware that his forehead lines bother him. So, if he wants to get Botox, I’m not going to stand in his way. Apparently, he won’t be standing in his own way anymore, either!

Almost every cosmetics company you can think of sells at least one eye cream and many sell more than a dozen, yet no one needs a product specifically labeled as an eye cream! The cosmetics industry has done an outstanding job convincing women eye creams are essential to eliminate everything from wrinkles to sagging skin, dark circles, and puffiness around the eye.  We’re here to tell you to call off the search, it is wasting your time and money! Surprised? Read on!

Here are the facts:

• There is no research proving that the skin around the eye area needs something different from skin elsewhere on the face.

• There are no cosmetic ingredients that change dark circles under the eye or get rid of sagging, puffy eyes, or crow’s feet (these lines show up on the face and the eye area, which makes all the theories about eye creams even more foolish).

• What you get when you buy an eye cream is a small amount of product (often half the size of a face product) that, ounce for ounce, is twice as expensive.

• Eye creams are often sold as being gentle and fragrance-free, so they’re “safe for the delicate eye area.” So, in essence, you are being told the eye area gets the good ingredients and the face gets the bad ones. The entire face needs to be treated gently and not exposed to irritating ingredients. More to the point, most eye creams DO contain fragrance AND coloring agents!

• Most eye creams are packaged in jars and that is a problem because as soon as you open the jar, the beneficial ingredients (assuming there are some in the formula) begin to deteriorate due to light and air exposure. It’s also unsanitary to dip your fingers into a jar every day!

• No one in the cosmetics industry (ingredient manufacturers, salespeople, or cosmetic chemists) has ever explained exactly what ingredients the eye area needs that the face doesn’t when it comes to dry skin, wrinkles, puffy eyes, or sagging skin—and we’ve asked hundreds of people over the years!

• If a “face” product is well formulated for dry skin and fighting wrinkles, you can use it anywhere on the face and beyond.

There are many myths about why you need eye creams, but that is just what they are, myths. Day after day, week after week, year after year we are constantly told “I’ve tried everything to get rid of [insert eye-area concern here],” and yet the problem persists. Of course it persists; these products cannot work as claimed, and you’re being mislead and wasting your money, time and time again.

We’re not saying you don’t need a brilliantly formulated moisturizer for around the eye area; it just doesn’t need to be labeled an eye cream with a higher price tag than the accompanying face product. Here are some brilliant examples of products that can and should be used around your eyes:

• BeautiControl Cell Block-C New Cell Protection SPF 20 ($31)
• CeraVe Facial Moisturizing Lotion PM ($13.99)
• Clinique Super Rescue Antioxidant Night Moisturizer ($42.50; available  in three versions for different skin types).
• *Olay Pro-X  Deep Wrinkle Treatment ($47) or Olay Total Effects 7-in-1 Anti-Aging Moisturizer Mature Skin Therapy ($18.99)
• Paula’s Choice Moisture Boost Hydrating Treatment Cream ($18.95)
• Paula’s Choice RESIST Barrier Repair Moisturizer ($22.95)
• Paula’s Choice Skin Recovery Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum ($24.95)
• SkinMedica Rejuvenative Moisturizer ($50)
• Vichy Reti-C Intensive Corrective Care ($30)
• Yes to Carrots Daily Facial Moisturizer with SPF 15 ($14.99)

*The Pro-X product has a creamy texture (more like an eye cream) while the Total Effects product has a thinner, lotion texture.

For an extensive list of the best antiaging products, including moisturizers that do double-duty as eye creams, visit CosmeticsCop.com and click on the link to our product reviews on Beautypedia. During the entire month of January, everyone can enjoy FREE access to Paula Begoun and The Cosmetics Cop Team’s extensive database of product review!

Tips for dealing with dark circles:

• First, stop searching for an eye cream claiming to eliminate dark circles; none of them work as claimed.
• Use sunscreen daily to keep circles from becoming darker.
• Apply a good concealer to lighten and brighten the undereye area.

For more tips on dealing with dark circles, click here.

Tips for dealing with puffy eyes:

• Many cases of puffy eyes are due to allergies; taking an over-the-counter antihistamine can help a lot (be sure you check with your physician before adding a new medication to your routine).
• Try sleeping with your head slightly elevated to minimize undereye swelling
• Keep cool compresses (such as a gel eye mask) ready to reduce morning puffiness

For more tips on dealing with puffy eyes, click here.

Ever since I first started working on the Don’t Go… books with Paula, we have had a fondness for doing our hands-on research in the beautiful city of Vancouver, British Columbia. Not only is this major city a relatively short drive from Seattle, but time and again it has proven to be a very friendly, helpful city for The Cosmetics Cop Team to work in.

By “work,” I mean we literally hit the streets, notes in hand, ready to visit drugstores, department stores, and specialty shops to personally look at dozens upon dozens of skin-care and makeup products. As you might imagine, this process requires lots of preparedness and concentration, not to mention a comfortable pair of walking shoes!

A co-worker and I recently did some research in Vancouver and it went beautifully! Not once were we asked to leave a store (yes that actually happens to us) or suspiciously questioned as to what we were doing, or even eyed with nervous apprehension. It seemed the salespeople simply viewed us as conscientious consumers with a rather intense curiosity about cosmetics—and that’s just fine with us!

What really struck me during this last trip was how different it can be doing such research in Vancouver vs. Seattle and environs. When we’re out doing our work in the U.S. we’re almost always on guard, ready to explain why we’re taking notes, why we need to see every shade of foundation (not just those the salesperson thinks will match our skin), and why we need the complete ingredient list rather than just the buzz-worthy ingredients the cosmetics industry loves to emphasize. We were careful in Vancouver, too, but found that for the most part, the salespeople weren’t all that concerned with what we were doing (and when they approached us they were always polite as opposed to the terse “What are you doing?” we normally get). 

I don’t know why this is, but we really appreciated just being able to go about doing our research without being questioned or treated like we’re up to no good. It’s amazing how often we’re either viewed as shoplifters or, more often, as employees from another store, there to check out the prices at a local competitor (I’ve been accused of this at Walgreens and Wal-Mart, and have had my notes scrutinized by management at Wal-Mart, not to mention questioned by security at Sephora stores) despite the fact the information we are gathering is mandated by the FDA to be available to the public.

The department stores can be the worst. Salespeople are often rude, they tend to hover, or they protect their products as if we were going to steal something. We gladly go through these experiences for you and have for years (even Paula has been thrown out of stores for writing down ingredients lists), because our goal is to do what it takes to get you the facts about the products you are buying. We truly want to help you spend your cosmetics dollars wisely, because wasting money is never pretty.

Of course, we’ve had lots of pleasant experience doing cosmetics research in the States. I can think of several salespeople who’ve been exceptionally helpful and who’ve willingly provided the information we need. These encounters are always appreciated. But I do need to send a great big “thank you” to the city of Vancouver for being such a great overall place for The Cosmetics Cop Team to do the work that so many consumers rely on to make informed decisions about what they buy. Until next time, Vancouver, THANK YOU!

The headline for this blog isn’t mine; I borrowed it from the October issue of Women’s Health magazine. The crux of the article was examining whether or not women over age 40 can be slim and still maintain a youthful face. Can women be skinny (well, preferably maintain a healthy weight without looking emaciated) and avoid telltale signs of aging? The answer may surprise you!

According to dermatologist Dr. Leslie Baumann (and Paula, who has been saying this for years), the “old face young body contradiction” is a problem for looking younger.  Women are eating healthier and exercising more, which of course leads to a loss of body fat. But when a woman over 40 has low body fat she starts seeing loss of facial volume. Why? Because with less facial fat, facial skin has less support and the wrinkles become more apparent. It’s one of those cruel ironies of getting older—women (and men, too) lose the ability to keep the fat where it does us the most good (in our face) and have trouble losing fat where it bothers us the most (our hips, thighs, and rear end).

You’ll recognize the signs of fat (volume) loss as it happens: eyes begin to look sunken and the skin beneath them forms pooches that don’t go away, smile lines become like vertical signposts, and cheeks lose their cherubic fullness. Couple these fat-related changes with sun damage, menopause, gravity, and other factors and you have the perfect storm for giving skin a deflated, sagging look.

Even more telling is when you compare the faces of women between the ages of 40 and 50 who are overweight to those who aren’t. Chubby women have younger-looking faces (meaning less wrinkles and sagging) than women who are at normal or underweight. It’s true!

Here are the most intriguing facts I learned from the article:

• Fat is incredibly important for the face, at least if you want to look younger.
• The fat beneath the skin (known as subcutaneous fat) was once thought to consist as one mass. New research has shown that the face actually has 21 “fat compartments”—and each of them ages at a different pace!
• How a person’s face ages is in large part related to how these fat compartments change over time—and women who stay too thin can have fat compartments that “sag like day-old party balloons,” even if the rest of their body is in top shape.

What’s the solution? Well, how do you feel about eating more food?

• If you want to maintain a healthy amount of facial fat to keep your face looking younger, longer, then you must maintain a 15% level of body fat—that’s if you have a naturally fuller or round face.
• Women with narrow, angular faces need—get this—at least 20–25% body fat to keep a youthful face after age 40.
• Still yo-yo dieting? Do whatever it takes to stop, because large increases in weight loss followed by weight gain and more loss only exacerbates what can happen to our facial fat as we age.
• Women with a history of yo-yo dieting can begin to see signs of facial sagging in their early 30s!

What it comes down to is this: if you’re willing to carry an extra ten pounds of body weight (meaning you’ll be slightly overweight) your face will look younger and you won’t look unhealthy. And, it doesn’t mean you have to gain weight via junk food. Quite the contrary: Eating a healthy diet that’s rich in antioxidants and essential fatty acids (think fish oil and you’re already on your way to looking younger) plays a pivotal role in how your skin ages. That doesn’t sound like such a bad trade-off to me—but what do you think? Would you rather be perceived as thin or as being younger than your actual age? And if you choose staying thin, are you willing to go for dermal fillers when your face begins showing telltale signs of fat loss?

Many people struggle with and really hate having large pores. So do we! There are some facts about pore size you need to know so you can see a noticeable difference—and you also need to know what’s not possible.

For the most part pore size is genetically determined, and when that’s the case, there isn’t much you can do to change that condition. But what about when pores become larger from factors not dependent on genetics? Now THAT’s where the right skin-care products can change things for the better.

Here’s what can happen to make pores larger: When a pore of any size has its follicle lining filled with excess dirt, excess oil (it’s actually wax inside the pore but “oily” on the surface), and dead skin cells, the pore swells and, you guessed it, looks more apparent. Even worse is the wax on the surface of the pore can oxidize, which causes it to turn black and, voila, you get a blackhead. These are the main reasons why women with oily skin often complain of having large pores (the excess oil is causing their pores to enlarge beyond their genetically determined size).

The solution? If your pores have become enlarged due to trapped debris and excess oil production, you need to take steps to remove the debris and restore a normal flow of oil from the pore lining on to the surface. A well formulated BHA product (active ingredient: salicylic acid) is a brilliant way to do that. The salicylic acid penetrates the pore lining, dislodging what’s trapped inside and causing your pores to enlarge. Once the trapped contents are free and with ongoing use of a BHA product to keep obstructions to a minimum, your pores will go back to their regular size. All together now: Woo hoo!

What else can you do? Well, it may surprise you to learn that certain products with cell-communicating ingredients (think retinol and niacinamide) can also help to reduce the appearance of enlarged pores. No, they won’t make your natural pore size shrink to that of a baby’s, but cell-communicating ingredients can “talk” to other cells and convince them to maintain a normal pore lining. This can also help you see a reduction in pore size!

Many Paula’s Choice customers have commented that our Skin Balancing Toner is a helpful addition to their skin-care routine due to its ability to help minimize the appearance of pores. When used with a well formulated BHA exfoliant and water-soluble cleanser as part of a comprehensive skin-care routine, you don’t have to live with enlarged pores, and that’s great news! Of course there are other products we recommend on Beautypedia.com but the customer reviews for this toner are too good to not share!

For stubborn clogged pores and blackheads it can help to physically remove the plug. You can do this yourself if you’re careful and don’t overdo it or you can have an esthetician do this for you. Paula wrote about how to do this here.

Lastly, do keep in mind that pore size and how your pores are perceived by others is never as horrible as you may think. First, other than your esthetician, it’s doubtful anyone is examining your pores with the same intensity that you are (well, except for Paula who uses a 10X magnifying mirror but up close and in person you’d never think that Paula has large pores).

Second, everyone has pores and without a great skin-care routine, everyone will experience some degree of pore clogging. Even those with naturally small pores and dry skin may find their skin has small, white bumps due to a buildup of dead skin cells in the pore lining. For someone with dry skin and clogged pores, once again a well formulated BHA product (preferably in a lotion base) is a brilliant option.

Now that you know the truth about pore size, you can take steps to make sure your pores stay clean and free of the debris that causes them to become enlarged. Go ahead—let the truth set your clogged pores free!

I don’t know what’s going on with my skin and hair lately, but I am blaming the weather!  Seattle has had an unusual summer; the truly hot, “yes, it’s definitely summer” days were few and far between, and lately we’ve been in full-on fall chill mode. Just this week the rain began, the temperature dropped and stayed down, and the clouds rolled in. Even the trees around our office are shedding their green leaves and showing early signs of changing color.

Although my skin and hair typically aren’t noticeably affected by local weather changes, this year is a completely different story. My face is super oily in the t-zone and uncomfortably dry on the cheeks. Shaving is starting to hurt. And my hair? Despite using the same tried-and-true products, it suddenly has a mind of its own. It’s like I have a rebellious teen living on my scalp, and he’s not listening to my pleas to stop acting so crazy and start making sense.

Here’s the kicker: I am at a bit of a loss as to what to do! Despite all I have learned and continue to learn about cosmetic product formulations, these surprising changes have really thrown me for a loop. Do I switch hair-care products? Blow-dry less often? Get a haircut? And for my skin, its extreme combination state means I need two completely different sets of products—not cool for someone who’s on the low side of being high maintenance! I’m tempted to just hide out until things balance out, but I know that’s not realistic (though I could catch up on a lot of movies I’ve been meaning to watch).

Never one to back down from a challenge, what I’m going to attempt to improve matters is the following:

• Get a haircut (somehow that always makes a positive difference) or learn to love hats.
• Switch to a conditioning shampoo and start using Paula’s Choice Smooth Finish Conditioner daily (I can be lazy about conditioner).
• Use fewer styling products (because adding more certainly isn’t helping matters).
• Keep using my Paula’s Choice Skin Balancing products in my oily areas, and add the Skin Balancing Carbon Mask to my routine (that excess oil needs to be off my nose, thank you very much).
• Begin using select Paula’s Choice Moisture Boost products to combat the dryness, especially after shaving. The Moisture Boost Hydrating Treatment Cream is my go-to favorite for stubborn dry patches.
• Exfoliate more often. I typically only do this two or three time per week (at night), and my skin is telling me loud and clear that more often will be better. My go-to exfoliants? I have two favorites: Paula’s Choice 1% BHA Lotion and our CLEAR Targeted Acne Relief Exfoliating Toner. Alternating between them should help improve my skin issues all over—I hope!
• Lastly, I’m going to check the relative humidity in my home. It may be lower than I think, and if so, it’s time to pull out the humidifier!

What about you? What do you do when your skin or hair freaks out for no apparent reason, save for the weather? I’d love to hear what has worked and what hasn’t!

We received an email below from an Australian woman wanting to know about a sunscreen her laser clinic recommended as being superior to all others. Making a claim that any skin-care product is superior to all others is marketing stupidity at its best, but it is even more ludicrous for a sunscreen because they are regulated in the same core style by cosmetic regulatory boards around the world!

We thought you might find the woman’s letter and our response interesting.

Dear Paula,

I went to a cosmetic laser clinic and the therapist recommended Actinica Liposomal Sunscreen SPF 30.  She said that regular sunscreens become ineffective after a couple of hours, and you need to re-apply them during the day for all day protection.  Actinica’s sunscreen is based on a new technology which allows it to stay effective all day until you wash it off.  Medical studies seem to have been done that show this sunscreen prevents some forms of skin cancer much better than regular sunscreens. Is this the elite sunscreen that it is being marketed as?

This was our reply:

Before we discuss the formula, we need to address the claim that regular sunscreens become ineffective after 2 hours. Although it’s true that reapplication of sunscreen is necessary to maintain protection, it is not true that sunscreens just stop working after two hours no matter what. How soon any sunscreen becomes ineffective depends on the following:

• The sunscreen formula
• How much sunscreen is applied (liberal application is key)
• Geographic location (someone in Australia is getting much stronger sun exposure than someone in Minnesota)
• Altitude (someone skiing in the mountains is getting more intense sun exposure than someone at sea level)
• Time spent outdoors versus inside
• How much outdoor time is spent in the shade versus getting direct sun
• Swimming or sweating requires reapplication after 2 hours no matter what sunscreen you are using.

Here’s a practical example:
If you apply a sunscreen rated SPF 15 in the morning and then drive to your office where you spend the better part of your day indoors, there’s no reason to reapply your sunscreen. Why? Because sunscreen actives require sun exposure in order to break down. That is simply how they work, and it’s why reapplication during long days outdoors is a must for everyone, especially after perspiring or swimming and/or toweling off.

The Actinica SPF 30 product is expensive ($59 for 80 grams/2.8 ounces) which will ABSOLUTELY discourage liberal application. Oddly enough, it seems Actinica doesn’t agree with the marketing claims they make because the product says it is only water- and sweat-resistant for 2 hours. So much for all-day protection!

In terms of the active ingredients, Actinica contains avobenzone and two forms of Tinsorb for UVA protection, which is great, but hardly unique to this product. It is a typical combination for sunscreens sold in Australia and throughout Europe. This sunscreen’s claim of once-daily application is dangerous for those whose skin is exposed to sunlight in the outdoor situations mentioned above.

There seems to be two studies Actinica refers to for this product. Not only wasn’t the study your clinic mentioned done double-blind, but the participants who weren’t using the Actinica sunscreen were allowed to use any sunscreen they wanted. Who knows if the other sunscreens being used were only an SPF 8 or didn’t contain active ingredients that protected from UVA damage (many sunscreens don’t)! That alone would account for the results the “study” generated, but we don’t know the details because that study wasn’t peer-reviewed or published.

The second study concerning Actinica was published but wasn’t independent. Moreover, this study was only done in a lab dish, not on people. It concluded that the photostability of Actinica in comparison with two other sunscreens “[were] poor under our experimental conditions.”  Given that there are hundreds of brilliant sunscreens on the market, choosing just two has no meaning, not to mention the study protocol was unrelated to how people use sunscreens.

Interestingly, the study mentioned Actinica’s sunscreen is a class 1 medical device—something you don’t see for the majority of sunscreens sold today. But guess what? A class 1 medical device isn’t as prestigious or superior as it seems! In fact, a Band-Aid® has the same classification.

Bottom line: Actinica SPF 30 will provide reliable broad-spectrum protection but there are many other sunscreens that offer this benefit and cost a lot less money, so you’ll be more inclined to apply liberally and reapply when necessary and that is truly the way to get superior sun care.

One of the journals Paula and I routinely read to keep up on the latest research-driven, peer-reviewed skin-care trends is Cosmetic Dermatology. The August issue featured a review of light-based treatments for acne, and it was a great piece with helpful information worth passing on.

Although light-emitting diodes (LED) with either red or blue bulbs show promise, those with acne need to know that they are absolutely not the first or even the best option. Light-emitting treatments for acne should be considered a second line of defense and as with any treatment for skin, there are pros and cons. 

The research shows that LED (from either blue or red lights) is best utilized as part of a comprehensive system with other proven anti-acne products. By “proven,” we mean products that include benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid, the cornerstones of Paula’s Choice CLEAR 3-Step System and other anti-acne products we recommend on Beautypedia. Those two gold standard anti-acne ingredients work for a large percentage of people fighting mild to moderate acne, either as teens or adults. 

If you want to consider LED treatments, here’s what the article in Cosmetic Dermatology summarized for the two most popular types of light therapy for acne-prone skin:

Blue Light Therapy

How it Works: Specific wavelengths of blue light target the strain of bacteria that play a pivotal role in causing acne. The light causes the development of oxygen radicals that kill P. acnes bacteria without damaging healthy skin.

Pros: Proven to kill acne-causing bacteria; best for mild to moderate inflammatory acne; reduced potential for side effects (such as dryness or peeling) that can occur with benzoyl peroxide products; a worthwhile option for those whose skin cannot tolerate topical disinfectants; pain-free, no downtime.

Cons: Requires multiple treatments, as many as 4 per week; expensive (averaging $40 per treatment), with results comparable to what you can achieve at home using a product medicated with 5% benzoyl peroxide (such as Paula’s Choice CLEAR Extra Strength Acne Fighting Treatment); LED treatments are not effective for cystic acne, blackheads, or whiteheads (milia); long-term results are unknown.

Device Names: ClearLight Acne Photoclearing System; Blu-U; Omnilux Blue (available outside the United States).

Red Light Therapy

How it Works: Specific wavelengths of red light target the skin’s oil glands and reduce cytokines, a class of pro-inflammatory substances believed to play a role in chronic acne. May also help improve skin’s barrier function by improving its ability to retain key elements it needs to heal; is believed to stimulate healthy collagen production. 

Pros: Also helps reduce signs of aging (though the results are subtle), so can be a better choice for those struggling with acne and wrinkles; minimal risk of side effects, especially when used without light-activating chemicals; no downtime.

Cons: Requires multiple treatments; not as well researched as Blue Light Therapy; does not affect acne-causing bacteria; long-term results are unknown; costs can vary from $50–$200 or more per treatment, depending on the device and treatment protocol your dermatologist prefers.

Device Names: Acnelamp (emits red and blue light, a combination that may prove even more helpful for acne than either light used alone); Omnilux Revive.

What about at-home light-emitting devices for clearing acne? For the most part, due to concerns over lawsuits, manufacturers of these devices are forced to limit their intensity. You’ll see red and/or blue lights emitting from the device, but the intensity is much less than the machines your dermatologist uses. In a sense, that’s good news because it is possible to overdo these treatments and consumers could end up damaging their skin, which is never the goal. Moreover, both of these light-emitting devices require protective eyewear. The wavelengths they emit can damage unprotected eyes, and if you don’t remember to protect your eyes at home with the higher intensity output you would be risking your sight.

Bottom line: LED treatments are an option after other topical medications haven’t worked. Just keep in mind that benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, and tretinoin (a prescription-only topical medication), along with other medical options are the first things you should consider. My strong personal feeling is that given the expense, and that most health insurance plans do not cover LED treatments for acne, they are last in line for dealing with acne.

Last weekend I visited a local cosmetic dermatologist I hadn’t seen before. My goal was to simply have a consultation to discuss my sun damage concerns, but, since time allowed, I went ahead and had a treatment. You might think this was for my face, but, thanks to almost neurotic sunscreen use since I was 14 years old, my face isn’t too sun damaged. My arms are a different story!

Since returning from vacation I’ve been paying more attention to how sun-damaged my arms are looking. The tiny freckles are part of how my skin responds to sun exposure even with high-SPF products (remember, no sunscreen is 100% effective at blocking the sun’s rays) and aren’t cause for concern. What bothers me are the larger, more mottled brown patches that only seem to be getting worse with age. It was time to do something about it!

After ruling out a series of Fraxel Refine treatments (I didn’t want to pony up $2,000 for a series of five, though from what I understand that’s a reasonable price), I decided to have the Vi Peel done. This peel, which was the only one this particular dermatologist offers, is a blend of trichloroacetic acid (TCA), tretinoin, salicylic acid, phenol, and vitamin C. According to the dermatologist, she no longer offers other types of peels because her patients have been thrilled with this one. I didn’t explore whether that’s true or not, but I was eager to see what the Vi peel could do for my sun-abused arms.

Before the peel commenced, I had to read and sign a consent form—standard practice before doctor-performed cosmetic procedures—but that’s where I paused to ask a question before signing on the dotted line.  

What stuck out was the statement that by signing the consent form for the Vi Peel I was waiving my right to request information about the percentage of active ingredients in the peel. Were they serious? I asked the dermatologist about this and she said yes, this form must be signed or they cannot administer the peel. I asked if she would tell me the percentages off the record and her response was that the company that sells the peel (Kalil Medical Products) won’t tell her, either, citing “proprietary information.” Imagine that!

OK, I understand the proprietary portion, but come on! This is a professional peel that’s only sold to and authorized for use by physicians or nurses. Next I asked what they’d do if a patient had an adverse reaction that required medical attention—would the company divulge the percentages then? She wasn’t sure, but suspected they would, and of course she mentioned that none of her patients had experienced a negative reaction to the peel. I didn’t feel pressured to go on, but I was stuck: either I consent or walk away.

Reluctantly, I signed the form. My logic, and mind you my brain was running low on caffeine and it was early in the morning, was that this is being done on my arms, not my face. Given the company-mandated subterfuge at hand, I probably wouldn’t have gone through with the peel if it was being applied to my face.

As for the procedure itself, it was quick and, true to claim, painless. My arms were cleansed, and then the liquid peel was poured onto disposable gauze pads and stroked in a series of three successive layers over each arm, from my wrist to the bicep area. The odor was, well, it didn’t smell good. I can’t imagine having this applied right beneath my nose, and because the peel is left on skin, you smell it for hours afterward.

Once the peel had been applied, I was given detailed post-care instructions and sent home. The peel needs to be left undisturbed for at least four hours after being applied, so I didn’t shower or apply skin-care products to my arms until later that day. Since then, I’ve either been wearing long sleeves (not the best idea at the height of summer) or slathering on sunscreen so as not to undo the eventual results.

I was told that by day three I’d notice peeling as if my skin was recovering from sunburn. So far that hasn’t happened; my skin feels tighter, has a subtle sheen, and looks a bit tan (that’s common). It has also been itchy, but nightly application of Paula’s Choice Slip Into Silk Body Lotion provides welcome relief.

By day seven I’m supposed to see the full effect, meaning signs of sun damage should be noticeably diminished. That’s exactly what I hope to see but whether or not I’ll go back for another Vi Peel remains to be seen. They’re pricey ($250 per treatment) but if the results are impressive enough I could see having it done again. I’ll comment on my progress soon, so be sure to check back! In the meantime, have you had the Vi Peel? Other peels? Did you like the results? Share your experience with us!

Trying to read a cosmetic ingredient label is a lot like trying to read Shakespeare: you know it’s important, but you may have no idea what you’re reading really means. The Cosmetics Cop Team’s Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary can help a lot, but the issue of how much of an ingredient should be in a formula is, for the most part, impossible for a consumer to understand.

For example, if you decide to look up decyl glucoside you’ll find out it is a gentle cleansing agent. But how much of that ingredient do you need and what other ingredients does it work best with? Or what about the dozens of other gentle cleansing agents that can be used instead? The same is true for antioxidants and countless other beneficial ingredients.

Making it even more complicated is the more than 20,000 cosmetic ingredients that a cosmetic chemist can select from to use in any formula in an endless variety of amounts. Now that’s really confusing!

Here’s what you need to know to make the most sense of it all:

1. The benefit or risk of any ingredient is in the dose, the form, and the delivery system. For example, salt is composed of sodium and chloride. Pure sodium and chloride by themselves are corrosive (think what happens when salt is sprayed on ice-covered roads), but together they become a tasty seasoning for food. But consuming too much salt can be a serious problem for high blood pressure. It works this way for each and every cosmetic ingredient as well.

2. While concentrations and formulation are everything, there is very little consensus in the cosmetic industry on how much of an ingredient is best or in what combination with other ingredients it should be used with. What studies do exist have limitations as the possible combinations are, quite literally, endless.

3. For most ingredients, knowing the percentage doesn’t give you much information at all because ingredients often work in combination with other ingredients, or as a part of other products’ formulations it is meant to work with. How much of each, and with what other products it’s to be used with, is the art of the formulator. I could never explain that for the large range of ingredients and products I’ve chosen to use for Paula’s Choice various skin-care systems, which is why, with a few exceptions, I have chosen not to reveal specific percentages for ingredients.

Delving a bit further into individual ingredient percentages, we always disclose the percentage of active ingredients required by the FDA for sunscreens, skin lightening, and acne products. We also share concentrations of the salicylic acid and glycolic acid we use because those ingredients do have specific research about how much is needed for optimal efficacy. But for the other ingredients I use in my products the specific percentage is what makes each formula unique to Paula’s Choice. Most important for you to know is that I have formulated my products based on my 30 years of experience in the cosmetics world using a cocktail approach to skin care.

Why “cocktail”? Research makes it abundantly clear that skin requires a cocktail (mixture) of ingredients to keep it healthy. Just like your diet requires many different foods to keep you healthy, skin is just as complex. No one skin-care ingredient can provide what skin needs.
Mixing different, state-of-the-art, and effective ingredients results in a more powerful blend that can make your skin look beautiful and radiant. Now that’s great skin care—even though the ingredient lists may stir more questions than answers!