Of course, it’s clear that Peggy has her finger on the pulse of the women’s movement to come, but that doesn’t mean that Freddy’s take on what motivates women to purchase beauty-related products is all that archaic, even by today’s standards. Believe me, I would know. As someone whose job description means being uniquely steeped in beauty product marketing with a critical eye, I can assure you that while the goal may not be to get married, it’s definitely still important to get noticed by men. Don’t believe me? How many beauty products—makeup, skin care, hair care, fragrance—are described as flirty? Sexy? Seductive? A lot. If sex sells anyplace, it’s with beauty products, which are almost exclusively marketed to . . . straight women.

This Pond’s debate on Mad Men got me thinking about what marketing angle sparks my own interest in a beauty product. With everything that Paula has taught me about the beauty industry and as a bona-fide member of The Cosmetics Cop Team, that’s not an easy question to answer. While I can’t say that I shop Dove exclusively, their Campaign for Real Beauty ads have definitely resonated with me. And Dove’s short films like this one that critiques the power that advertising has on women from an early age is compelling. I’m well aware that there’s an inherent hypocrisy to Dove’s marketing angle (particularly the image retouching), but the campaign’s aim seemed true enough to make a lasting impression on me.

What do you think? Are beauty products still aimed at helping a woman find a man or is it about female empowerment? And, for better or worse, which products’ ad campaigns speak to you?

So, I got into a little debate with someone the other day who thought it was shallow of me to enjoy these types of shows. Her point was that shows focused solely on how to improve your looks send the wrong message: conform to society’s standard of beauty so that you can find love, a better job, a better life.

Let me start out by clarifying that I absolutely agree that what’s on the inside is what matters most. No amount of makeup, plastic surgery or designer clothes can make up for an “ugly,” mean-spirited personality, and beauty has never made anyone a better person.

But I do think there is something rewarding about taking care of yourself and putting your best face forward. This is clearly demonstrated in makeover shows when you see the participant’s eyes light up and their confidence soar after their transformation is complete. How you achieve that is up to you—whether it means taking care of your skin, wearing makeup, exercising, or anything else that makes you feel good about yourself. The point is: It’s ok to care about YOU.

I know there are plenty of you out there who are thinking, “I don’t need that stuff to feel better about myself.” You know what, good for you! However, if reality shows prove anything, it’s that there are people who, for whatever reason, aren’t giving themselves what they need. If that’s you, I urge you to get out of your beauty rut and take control of how you feel about yourself.

Here are a few tips to jump start your process:

• Don’t think you have time for good skin care? Here’s a guide to beautiful skin in five minutes!
• Have no clue where to start with makeup? Take a trip to your local department store and have several of the makeup artists there show you some techniques and help you pick out flattering colors.
• Are you worried about spending money on beauty products? Visit www.beautypedia.com where you can find cosmetic products in all price categories. Some of the top rated products are under $5!

The rest is up to you! Whether you agree or disagree with my thoughts on makeovers and the shows that focus on them, one thing is undeniable: Taking care of your overall wellbeing is important and sometimes that means making your exterior beauty a priority. Now, let’s hear what you have to say…

Many of you have asked The Cosmetics Cop Team about our take on The Story of Cosmetics video sponsored by the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics. It is clear the information in the video is inaccurate, unsupported, and is merely a vehicle to scare consumers—for some unknown reason—about the cosmetics they use. However, we strongly recommend watching this video from YouTube’s HowTheWorldWorks channel. It is well thought-out with independent research, so you can see for yourself what the real facts are instead of being misled by stick drawings and undocumented assertions as made by The Story of Cosmetics.

Because The Story of Cosmetics video is so shockingly biased, what you don’t know is that the assertions of the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics are routinely discredited by the independent scientific community. No one is dying or getting sick from using cosmetics and the environment is not falling apart. Rather, we now have safer and more effective skin care, better makeup, impressive shampoos and styling products, and more remarkable hair dyes than ever before. There is not a shred of evidence proving otherwise.

Bottom line: The information in the video sponsored by the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics is either misleading or 100% false. Much of what’s stated is not based on solid science, and only loosely (and we mean really loosely) based on facts. The truth is that there are some cosmetic ingredients to be concerned about; however, those ingredients are prohibited by regulatory groups worldwide, or the studies concerning their risks don’t relate to how they are used in cosmetic products.

The real story behind The Story of Cosmetics video is to tell you about The Safe Cosmetics Act of 2010. This Act seeks to put much tighter restrictions on what can and cannot be used in cosmetics. The problem? They are using information that in comparison would make sugar and salt in food illegal. The explanation they use that Europe has taken a lead in this arena is also ludicrous. My products are sold easily in Europe, but the proposal here in the U.S. would put my products in question and, regardless of brand, would leave consumers without many of the tried-and-true products essential for keeping skin issues like acne in check, not to mention helping your skin look younger, longer.

I know all of you would like The Cosmetics Cop Team to say we found some miracle product with some miracle ingredients from some remote part of the world that can provide the results you can get from cosmetic corrective procedures and surgery, but they DON’T exist. Hundreds of companies tell you otherwise, but they are absolutely lying.

We started out the show having a lot of fun reviewing some of the ridiculous products from Bremenn Labs that are the epitome of what kind of insanity lurks behind almost every infomercial, department store, drugstore, salon, spa, or home shopping cosmetic brand. Bremenn Labs actually sells products called Tummy Tuck in a Box, Boob Job in a Box, Butt Lift in a Box, and Upper Eyelid Lifter. I didn’t know whether to laugh, throw up, or cry. Admittedly, it’s hard to laugh when you know women are wasting their money on this kind of stuff every day.

After explaining why Boob Job in a Box was not even close to the real thing, we talked to Dr. Brandith Irwin. She went over details of what can really be done with cosmetic corrective procedures such as Botox, Thermage, Fraxel, dermal fillers (such as Sculptra, Radiesse, Restylane, or Artefill), and laser and light therapies. I know, I know, they’re pricey, but with all the money you’ll save by not buying useless “Works like [insert cosmetic corrective procedure here] …” skin-care products or pills or drinks claiming to get rid of your wrinkles, sagging skin, and furrowed brow, you’ll be able to afford the things that really work.

Dr. Irwin also touched on expectations and the results you can achieve with different procedures. Botox and dermal injections produce the fastest and most impressive results. Facial peels are also impressive, but that is completely dependent on the strength of the peel and the know-how of the person applying it. Machines such as laser, IPL, or Thermage are less impressive in the short term but are extremely effective when a series of treatments are done.

It is also important to keep in mind that if you have advanced sun damage and sagging that a non-invasive procedure won’t make you look like you just had a face-lift. That’s why it’s important to consider these treatments before you start looking older. Ongoing, preventive maintenance goes a long way to delaying the decision to actually have a cut-and-paste surgical procedure.

I often hear women say to their female friends, “You don’t need anything like a face-lift or lasers—you look fine!” First of all, none of us just want to look “fine.” Second, are women supposed to wait until their friends say, “Wow, your skin is looking like a bad piece of leather and hanging down like a worn pair of drapes!”? The idea is to treat your skin to prevent sagging and wrinkles, not wait until you’re looking in the mirror and wondering who that old lady is staring back at you.

As with every radio show, we took questions from several women and gave away an assortment of Paula’s Choice products. The combination of brilliant skin care along with carefully selected cosmetic dermatologic treatments is the smartest way you can truly look younger, longer. And isn’t that what most of us want? I know it’s what I want and why I see Dr. Irwin three or four times a year for my touch-ups (which include Botox, Fraxel, and fillers). I know some day I will bite the bullet and have full-on cosmetic surgery, but for now, if I do say so myself, I think I look pretty damn good!

 1. Avon Anew Clinical Body Contouring Treatment ($25 for 5 oz)
Claims: “Tightens, smoothes and lifts in all the right places. Lifts sagging and reduces crepiness. Nearly 100% of women showed tighter skin on abs, hips and thighs, plus more lifted buttocks. Up to 93% showed firmer skin. Up to 50% more lifted buttocks.* Up to 50% tighter skin. Instantly skin feels firmer and more toned. In just 2 weeks 82% of women saw a more contoured-looking body. Over time reduces the look of excess skin on abs, hips, thighs and buttocks; works like an invisible body shaper to minimize unwanted curves.”

The first thing we asked is how does this product know what needs lifting and what doesn’t, given you’re applying it all over? Also, when would it know when to stop lifting? Who needs their thighs up around their waist? 100% of women had tighter skin, but only 93% had firmer skin? And up to 50% tighter skin? First, what’s the difference between firmer and tighter, and second, who was doing the counting because these are the oddest totals ever? And what does 100% of women mean? If there were two women who worked for Avon that would be 100%? It’s just all utter nonsense. There isn’t one ingredient in this product that is going to change the shape of your body. Perhaps this product should be called Clinical Downsizing of Your Wallet for $25!

2. ReVive Serum Presse ($295 for 1 oz)
Claims: “Instant gratification in a bottle…the first RéVive serum to give skin the look of instant lift and radiance. Noticeably lifts and firms the skin immediately with an advanced polysaccharide tensor while brightening soft-focus optics give skin an instant glow.”

Notice the words “the look of” before “instant lift.” That’s a clever way of stating what consumers with sagging skin want to hear, but in truth it isn’t saying your skin will be lifted at all. Quite the contrary, all you’re getting for $295 for 1 ounce is “the look of lifted skin” but that isn’t remotely the same as actually lifting sagging skin back into place. And even if it could do that, what happens to the excess skin? Does it shrink? Of course not, and there isn’t one ingredient in here that will give you the results you are hoping for. As for the “soft-focus optics” this is supposed to contain, it is a sham way to describe the shiny particles this product contains, the same shiny particles a $10 blush uses.

3. Clarins Fix’ Make-Up ($25.50 for 1 oz)
Claims: “A refreshing mist that sets make-up and prolongs its hold, while providing a feeling of instant freshness and well-being. Also provides continuous hydration and comfort.”

We couldn’t believe our eyes when we read this claim! There is nothing about this that translates to a real-life experience. It is designed as a spray-on mist to set your makeup, but this product does little more than make skin feel damp and slightly sticky. It contains nothing that enhances makeup wear; in fact, overdoing this can lead to makeup meltdown or streaking. Plus the fragrance from both synthetic and plant extracts are over the top and made us gag. Whoever thought this overpriced, gimmicky product was a good idea needs to rethink their career!

4. Nu Skin AgeLoc Gentle Cleanse & Tone ($53 for 2 oz)
Claims: “Gently purifies and primes skin morning and night. This sophisticated foaming cleanser combines cleansing and toning into a single step, while providing the skin with advanced anti-aging ingredients. This luxurious formula delivers your first infusion of ageLOC and leaves your skin feeling soft and refreshed.”

We had to double-check the price for this cleanser to make sure we weren’t seeing things, as this just may be the most expensive cleanser in the cosmetic world that ends up being nothing more than an exceptionally standard, detergent-based water soluble cleanser, and we mean really standard. Even if it did contain anti-aging ingredients, in a cleanser it would just be rinsed down the drain. Yes this works to clean skin and remove makeup, but the price is sheer lunacy. Similar cleansers are available from Olay, Neutrogena, Clean & Clear, and Paula’s Choice for a fraction of the cost (and in sizes that won’t be depleted in two or three weeks).

5. Serious Skin Care Eyetality Total Eye Care ($36.50 for 0.5 oz)
Claims: “Eyetality takes a leap into the future of skin care and brings you our first all encompassing eye beauty treatment that addresses each and every specific need of the complete eye area.”

Talk about outrageous claims—how can any one product take care of each and every specific need of any area, especially considering this product doesn’t contain sunscreen! What about that need, given the wrinkles around the eye are almost all about sun damage, shouldn’t a “Total Eye Care” include an effective SPF? Even more implausible is the fact that there are no skin-care answers for puffiness, droopy lids, dark circles, or pouching around the eye. This is just yet another addition to the thousands of eye creams on the market making the same claims they can’t live up to.  

We just had to throw in one more:

6. Glamoxy Snake Serum ($150 for .85 oz)
Claims: “This revolutionary oxygenated, viper-inspired serum contains syn-ake; a neuro peptide that mimics the effects of the Temple Viper’s potent venom to instantly lift the face, freeze muscles and plump fine lines and wrinkles.”

We had to hiss at every claim this product makes. It is nothing more than a pathetic attempt to prove Glamoxy can mimic the affect of Botox. The entire notion is laughable and completely bogus. Snake venom doesn’t work like Botox in any shape or form. First, given you are applying it with your hands, if Glamoxy actually worked, wouldn’t the muscles in your hand be frozen as well? You would also likely be applying it to areas of your face you don’t want to freeze. The star ingredients listed on this product’s website with names such as Proturon and Ronasphere are trade names for sodium hyaluronate and silica, which are about as special as white bread! These are standard ingredients and completely without any Botox-like properties for skin.

Another overblown ingredient is listed as Fiflow BTX which is supposed to carry oxygen to the skin. The actual ingredients for this are perfluorohexane, perfluoroperhydrophenanthrene, perfluorodecalin, and perfluorodimethylcyclohexane, which obviously are not as impressive sounding as Fiblow BTX. These substances are fluorocarbons that do indeed bring oxygen to lungs in some medical situations, but the effect on skin, if any, is not known. After all, oxygen causes free-radical damage. Not to mention the EPA is considering taking these off the market. All in all, this product gives an entirely new meaning to the term “snake oil.”

Now let’s hear some of your favorites…

My team and I have written extensively about this issue. The articles are all on PaulasChoice.com. Click here for our article on Vitamin D and Sun Exposure. 

Kate B.
I would like a blog on how you defend your condemnation of alcohol and witch hazel in skin products to alternate-medicine people (like Dr. Weil) who vociferously promote them.

I’ve searched Dr. Weil’s website and he doesn’t seem to like alcohol, either. He has pages explaining it can be a causative factor for cancer, erectile dysfunction, dementia, osteoporosis, dry skin, and on and on.

For what I’ve written, there is nothing to defend; I am merely reiterating what the research shows is true for this ingredient. The studies we have cited on PaulasChoice.com for alcohol makes it abundantly clear that alcohol (in the form of denatured alcohol, benzyl alcohol, SD alcohol, and ethanol) causes irritation, free radical damage, cell death, and dryness. A martini isn’t a health food for your body any more than it is for skin. Alcohol is also a poor antibacterial agent for acne (the bacteria that causes acne isn’t on the surface of skin it’s in the pore and alcohol can’t penetrate that deep into skin), and because of the irritation it causes, it stimulates oil production directly in the pore.

The problem with witch hazel is that it can be a skin irritant when used daily and is often stabilized in alcohol.

Lisa D.
Color trends. I know how you feel about blue eye shadow but the group that grew up wearing it is now in charge and color is just as popular as ever. Is there any color(s) you find appropriate or have you changed your mind about blue at all?

Actually, the people developing makeup products are younger than you can ever imagine. They are not the baby boomers. Kids run the cosmetics industry when it comes to marketing and those are the people making decisions about the products being sold.

In terms of colors, I have never changed my viewpoint about blue or other pastel, overly obvious colors. But the fashion world has supported that viewpoint month after month, year after year. You only have to look at the makeup worn by celebrities when they are on the red carpet, or models in fashion magazines in ads for clothing companies, or the makeup on the cover girls on magazines—they aren’t wearing blue, purple, pink, orange, red, burgundy, or mauve eyeshadows. The neutral brown, tan, beige, charcoal shades are, and always have been, the best options for the eyes.

Kyra M.
I’d love to read about how and where Paula’s Choice is giving back to the community. Where does Paula see the greatest need?

At Paula’s Choice our mission is to take brilliant care of your skin, whether you use our products or someone else’s, but we also strive to do all we can to be of service to the community. There is no need that isn’t important. All any of us can do is be involved, donate our money and/or time and care, regardless of the cause. Paula’s Choice commitment to give in this way comes from our hearts and we are honored to participate in this effort.

Paula’s Choice and I personally and proudly support:

American Cancer Society
American Humane Society
American Red Cross (Disaster Relief Fund)
ASPCA
DAWN (Domestic Abuse Women’s Network)
Dress for Success Seattle (a division of the YWCA)
Habitat for Humanity
Humane Society of the United States
Juvenile Diabetes Foundation
Save the Children Federation, Inc.
Susan G. Komen Breast Cancer Foundation
United Negro College Fund
YWCA

Foundation that’s peeling off as you try to apply — You are either using the wrong foundation (check our recommendations on Beautypedia.com), you’re over-blending, or you’re wearing a moisturizer or sunscreen that doesn’t wear well under makeup.

What to do when you decide to touch up your powder eyeliner and it leaves sprinkles across your face after you’ve completed your makeup. — Always knock the excess off your brush before applying. Keep your makeup sponge and a bit of foundation and your magnifying mirror handy to touch up what does fall on to your face. 

You blink and leave a ring of wet mascara below and/or above — You need to use a mascara that’s not as wet as you’re describing. You can also build the intensity slowly so it isn’t as wet when you go to the next eye. When a mistake does happen, let it dry completely and then use a Q-tip to flick it away. You can then touch up with your concealer or foundation.

Lauren M.
I’d like to read about the best moisturizers with sunscreen in them for sensitive skin.

We have a large list of options on Beautypedia.com but in general, for sensitive skin, the only active ingredients on the label should be titanium dioxide and/or zinc oxide. Synthetic sunscreens always have a risk of causing an irritant reaction for some skin types.

Donny
To coincide with summer: what types of sun and rays of sun we should avoid. How each type affects our skin for the short-term and long-term? Ideal application and frequency of sun-screen, and store alternatives we can buy.

UVA damages DNA, UVB burns the skin. Both cause skin cancer, wrinkles, collagen breakdown, impaired immune cells, and brown skin discolorations. Infrared heat from the sun is something your skin feels; it doesn’t cause damage as long as you are not outside in 100+ degree weather for very long. It’s really that simple. Ideal application is every day of your life, use an SPF 15 or greater (and greater is better, I like layering sunscreen for the face, a moisturizer with sunscreen, a foundation and pressed powder with sunscreen). 

Susan G. 
Why is my skin allergic to sunless tanning gel?

Why are some people allergic to dogs but not cats, or grass but not flowers, or pollen but not flowers? It’s just the way your body reacts to the typical ingredients in self-tanners.

Susan B.
How do you take care of dry skin on your feet?

Check out this article where you’ll find skin-care solutions for knees, heels, and elbows. And don’t forget to sign up for my FREE newsletters here.

Brian N.
I’d like to see a blog about where the industry is going to go in the next 10 years and what’s new and exciting on the horizons in terms of research etc.

I’d like to know where it’s going, too. Right now it seems that consumers will buy anything that says “all natural” or “anti-wrinkle” (and people over 50 have more money to spend than any other group). In terms of what will really benefit skin that is yet to be seen.

Brandi L.
Adult acne and struggling with “teenage” like super oily skin in my late 20s. Always hoped I’d be done by now.

There is no difference in treating adult acne than teenage acne, and you would still approach your skin-care regimen in the same way. Follow this link to my article on Acne Treatment. Good luck, and let us know how you are doing on your routine!

Sabrina W.
I’d love to see you write more about your products and which are best for Rosacea. You have some information on your website and beautypedia, but not extensive information. So far I’m pleased with my new products.

Here is an article on our website about rosacea that I think will really help you: Rosacea Skin Care Solutions.

Caroline B.
Deceptive product advertising and why we continue to fall for the BS. What specific communications techniques do they use for particular target markets, and how can the consumer be more aware of these deceptive practices?

It’s all deceptive. Period. Why? Because women want to be beautiful and the claims, celebrity endorsements, and advertisements are too seductive to ignore no matter how repetitive and redundant they are. Keep in mind that even the cosmetic companies don’t believe what they advertise or they wouldn’t keep launching new products, making the same claims as the ones they currently sell or sell in other lines they own.

Jenna K.
I would like to see information regarding Oil Cleansing Method. website: http://www.theoilcleansingmethod.com/ On a similar note, I find baby oil removes all traces of my Colorstay foundation, but I am not sure if it is damaging to my acne-prone skin.

There is nothing wrong with using mineral oil to remove makeup. Mineral oil is one of the most benign, gentle ingredients in the world of skin care. There is no research showing cosmetic or pharmaceutical grade mineral oil is a problem for skin.

The website you mention is a bit weird. Again there is nothing wrong with removing makeup with oil, plant oil, or mineral oil, but the reasoning in this article is just odd. For example, one of the points is that oil removes oil and therefore you need to use oil to clean out your pores which contain oil. Think about it, if you have oil on your counter top would you ever try to clean it up with more oil? It would just get worse. It also mentions the need for steam. That is really bad information. Steam can cause fragile surface capillaries to surge with blood and then burst causing redness and spider veins on the face. Plus heat stimulates oil production in the pore.

A serious distinction between Latisse and RapidLash is that Latisse is a prescription-only drug. Therefore, it is subjected by the FDA to intense scrutiny, proof of safety, and proof of efficacy. Because RapidLash is a cosmetic, it is not subject to these same requirements. Rocasuba, the company that distributes RapidLash, has done some amount of their own testing, but it pales in comparison to the level of testing Latisse went through to prove what it can and can’t do and what risks accompany its benefits.

Claims for RapidLash are carefully worded so they remain strictly cosmetic and not like a drug but here’s the difference: RapidLash does contain an ingredient that quite possibly allows it to work like Latisse. The active ingredient in Latisse is bimatoprost. Bimatoprost is the active ingredient in the prescription medication Lumigan used to treat glaucoma. Patients with glaucoma who used Lumigan noticed their eyelashes really grew and got darker. Allergan owns Lumigan and so they took advantage of this side effect and obtained FDA approval to sell this active ingredient as a lash growing treatment.

RapidLash contains an ingredient called isopropyl cloprostenate, which has some distant molecular similarities to bimatoprost. While there is no published research showing isopropyl cloprostenate can grow lashes, its relation to bimatoprost clearly exists. This association is the likely explanation behind RapidLash’s runaway success. A quick Google search produces thousands of online “fans” all attesting to its efficacy.

Given there is evidence that RapidLash could work similarly to Latisse, it is therefore possible that the same side effects associated with Latisse could occur when using RapidLash as well. Bimatoprost can cause irritation, redness, a bluish skin discoloration around the eye that could be permanent, and a permanent change in eye color among other potential problems anyone considering Latisse should be told about. The company selling RapidLash says they have no research or evidence showing these risks exist for their product, but their research is not reviewed by the FDA nor are they required to perform the mandatory safety and efficacy tests for drugs required by federal law. However, it is reassuring that the company has made the efforts to ensure the safety of RapidLash, and they willingly provided these documents to us.

So should you consider trying RapidLash for longer lashes and fuller eyebrows? The Cosmetics Cop Team is leaving this product unrated and not making a conclusion one way or the other. There just isn’t enough substantiated information to make a clear recommendation. For your own eye health, if you do decide to try RapidLash, or Latisse for that matter, watch for any negative side effects as mentioned above and it never hurts to check with your doctor first. Bottom line: RapidLash should work, at least in theory, to produce the results you want.

Makeup Don’ts

• Don’t neglect skin care or try to cover up skin problems with makeup instead of treating them! No matter how good any individual makeup product is, it will only look as good as the skin it’s applied to. Skin must be smooth and free of dry, flaky patches or yucky, clogged pores. Using makeup to conceal what you don’t like about your skin is the wrong approach.

• Don’t forget to check your eyebrows: Overly drawn on, penciled in like a waxy line, or overly sparse brows are not what you want to see. These mistakes can make someone who is 25 years old look much older.

• When you tweeze or wax your brows there is a fine line between natural and softly shaped, and a fake, overly arched look. If you’re not sure how to groom your eyebrows, make an appointment at a salon that specializes in brow shaping and enhancing (but have them provide an outline of what they want to do; you don’t want to have your brows stripped away).

There are some interesting brow makeup products to consider. Some of the Cosmetics Cop Team’s favorites include:

o Billion Dollar Brows Brow Powder
o Origins Fill in the Blanks Eyebrow Enhancer (this is a brow pencil)
o Maybelline New York Define-a-Brow Eyebrow Pencil
o Sephora Arch-It Brow Kit (comes with great instructions and tools for shaping your brows at home)

• Don’t forget to check your makeup in a magnifying mirror: What you can’t see, you can’t fix, especially makeup settling into lines around the eye and folds along the mouth. A little powder applied directly over the line, blending upwards and out, can keep everything in place, but you have to see it up close to get it done right. Have your sponge and/or brushes ready so you can quickly blend or diffuse any mistakes. Magnifying makeup mirrors can be purchased in most drugstores, Bed Bath & Beyond, and beauty supply stores such as Sally Beauty.

• Avoid overly greasy moisturizers around the eyes, as they are a slip-up waiting to happen. It will encourage concealers and foundations to travel right into the very lines you want to hide. If you feel you need an extra-emollient moisturizer around your eyes, do it at night after you’ve removed your makeup, and use lighter-weight products during the day.

• Don’t forget to downplay shiny makeup during daylight hours: Extra shine or glitter is fine at night, but during the day no matter what your age it just looks overdone, kind of like wearing a sequined gown to the office. Exception: there are many “radiance-boosting” makeup products that forgo obvious, distracting shine in favor of creating a subtle luminosity. Examples of our favorites in this category include:

o Clinique Fresh Bloom Allover Colour (great for the cheek area)
o Lancome Color Ideal Illuminateur Sheer Highlighting Pressed Powder (great for all over use)
o Lorac Oil-Free Luminizer (ideal mixed with your foundation for a subtle glow)
o Jane Shimmering Bronzer (brilliant as bronzer and the “strips” of color also work as eyeshadow)

• Don’t forget to be careful with gloss: Too much gloss can look like you’re drooling, instead of a luminescent glow of color over your lips. Also be very careful with glossy, slick, or creamy lipsticks; if you have lines around your mouth, these will bleed quickly and won’t last past mid-morning before a touch-up is needed.

Again, check in a good magnifying mirror during the day, because for some women, it takes a bit of time for lipsticks or glosses to feather into lines around the mouth. You can also stick with softer colors from some of the best lipsticks we’ve found for comfortable, long wear—and they don’t feather into lines around the mouth! Our favorites:

o Estee Lauder Double Wear Stay-in-Place Lipstick
o M.A.C. Lipsticks (Matte or Satin—the color range is huge)
o Rimmel Lasting Finish Intense Wear Lipstick
o Revlon Matte or Super Lustrous Lipsticks (the latter offering a staggering range of 70+ shades)

Makeup Dos

• Pay attention to your smile! Whiter teeth make you look healthy and vibrant. Even if your skin isn’t glowing, if your teeth do, it adds incredible brightness and beauty to your face. Since Paula’s Choice launched our Brighten Up 2-Minute Teeth Whitener we have all become fastidious about our smiles! And our customers agree: This product has become the best-selling item Paula’s Choice has ever launched!

• Dark lipstick is, well, dark. By definition when something is dark it isn’t bright and glowing. Soft color is a sexy, glowing look any time of day. Red can work too, and it makes a dramatic statement, just keep it on the brighter side as opposed to a deep magenta shade (and definitely not purple or anything in the brown family). Some of our favorite red lipsticks include:

o NARS Lipstick in Fire Down Below, or Jungle Red
o Laura Mercier Lip Crème in Truly Red
o Revlon Super Lustrous Lipstick in Cherries in the Snow, or Fire & Ice
o Estee Lauder Double Wear in Stay Scarlet

• Think soft color with blushes and eyeshadows, but nothing too pastel-ish. Do a split-face makeup application on yourself to test different looks and see which one gives you the soft celebrity or cover girl look you want to achieve.

• Make sure the intensity of your blush complements your skin tone. If you have fair to light skin, pale pink, rose, or peach shades are always going to be more flattering than deep berry or plum shades, which can make the cheek area look bruised. In contrast, women with medium to tan skin tones can look gorgeous with berry or plum-hued blush. The Cosmetics Cop Team has some favorite powder blushes, and they are:

o American Beauty Blush Perfect Cheek Color (this line is sold at Kohl’s)
o Jane Blushing Cheeks Blush
o L’Oreal True Match Blush

• Color balance is important. In other words, if you are wearing a pinkish lipstick or gloss tone your blush should be in a similar color family. It’s sort of like if you are wearing a pink skirt and orange top: under most circumstances, these strong colors can clash. It can sometimes work, but be careful. High contrast makeup can look glaring, and if you’re thinking young, vibrant and healthy, stick with related tones.

• Soft glowing (not shiny or glittery) foundations, blushes, and powders used carefully can add a beautiful dimension to skin, but you have to be careful. Shine all over can be distracting, but placed in the center of the face (not the nose) and along the blush area and chin can eradicate dull skin. Of course great skin care is more important, but getting some help from your makeup is the best of both worlds.

• Ignore the recommendations to use cream blush. The reason you don’t see cream blush very often at the counters is because it is hard to use. When you blend it on, you’re generally wiping off the foundation and powder you just applied. It also tends to slip and fade more during the day and it is harder to control. Given how soft and beautiful blushes are these days you can achieve a sheer, creamy look without a cream blush and get better, faster results. If you must have a creamy-type blush, stick with cream-to-powder formulas such as:

o Revlon Cream Blush
o Clinique Blushwear Cream Stick
o Studio Gear Naturalism Cream-to-Powder Blush (sold at Ulta)

• Do use blush! Forgoing blush is a mistake. It would be like not wearing a blouse with your skirt, you’d be naked on top. Same thing with blush, don’t leave your cheeks naked.

• Eyeliner applied close to the lashes with a soft brown or charcoal brown shade can look beautiful by enhancing the lashes and framing the eye. If the outer corners of your eyes have begun to droop, make sure the eyeliner turns up ever-so-slightly so you don’t emphasize the drooping. For the lower lash line, use a softer color than you did for your upper lash line. For example, if your upper lash line is lined with black, use a dark gray or even a soft taupe for the lower lash line. Black all around the eye can look too harsh and take away from the soft, even-handed look you’re going for. Powder eyeshadows work great as eyeliner, and those from M.A.C., Shu Uemura, Sephora’s own brand, and Trish McEvoy offer wonderful options.

• Test makeup primers. Some formulations smooth out skin and help create a glowing, but not shiny, look to your makeup. You want a primer that enhances your skin tone while also giving your skin the ingredients it needs to look and feel healthy. Some of our favorites include:

o Giorgio Armani Light Master Primer
o Jan Marini Age Intervention Prime Face Primer
o M.A.C. Prep + Prime Line Filler
o Victoria’s Secret Airbrush FX Face Primer SPF 20

You can also apply any well-formulated serum in lieu of primer. With a well-formulated serum you can be sure you’re getting the benefit a primer provides, plus critical antiaging ingredients skin needs to repair itself and resist wrinkles. Paula’s Choice offers three Antioxidant Concentrates that are brilliant options for use as a “foundation primer with benefits.”

• Blend, blend, and blend again. Don’t use emollient/greasy concealers on blemishes. Do use a lightweight, flesh-tone (that means no yellow, orange, or lavender tones) concealer that is a shade or two lighter than your foundation.

Now that you know what to do and what to avoid, we hope your makeup application and the look you’re going for will be easier than ever to achieve! Here’s to beautiful days ahead—and using makeup to enhance your best features rather than covering them up! For complete reviews of the products mentioned above, visit Beautypedia.com.