Before the fall weather took hold of Seattle, I decided to hit my favorite flea market to get one last fix of vintage oddities at bargain prices. Looking through the hodgepodge of goods, I came across an antique Revlon rouge compact that I estimated to be from the late ’40s or early ’50s. It was beautiful: made of a heavy gold metal, the round compact had an art-deco design and Revlon inscribed across it—a far cry from the plastic Revlon compacts in drugstores today! I couldn’t control the urge to open it, and to my surprise the product housed inside was still in great condition. The compact held a bright cream blush called Clear Red, as well as a tiny, tattered puff applicator. I smeared a little bit of the blush on the back of my hand, and even more surprisingly, the blue-based red hue transferred and blended well!

Perhaps it’s because I’m surrounded by makeup at work, but these pigments had me enchanted—they were so distinctively retro and unlike anything I see in stores today. And there’s a good reason for that: Cosmetic regulations in the ’70s delisted certain red dyes that had the most amazing depth of color, staying power, and creamy lush consistency. Regrettably, more recently developed cosmetic color additives just haven’t come close to the classic shades that came before. Nevertheless, what I find compelling about vintage makeup is how it utilizes a handful of products in rich but basic shades to create nearly universally, timeless, and flattering looks. To me, it really proves that the classics are always beautiful.

Now with the proliferation of period TV like Mad Men and Boardwalk Empire, and the ever-expanding list of celebrities like Gwen Stefani, Katy Perry, and Dita von Teese who don retro-inspired fashion, my preoccupation with vintage makeup has officially eclipsed my interest in chasing the latest trends. I’m now turning to the stunning looks of the past for beauty inspiration. I’m fortunate to have a face and personality that can pull off retro styles—I have big eyes, pale skin, round cheeks and a strong cupid’s bow mouth—and perhaps a soul that’s a bit on the sentimental side.

That said, I still keep my more stylized makeup designs mostly confined to evenings and weekends. Instead, for daytime I try to incorporate a subtle element or two of retro-ness, without it looking like I’m headed to a costume party. To that end, I’m always on the lookout for makeup that will translate as vintage—because I’m not putting a 60-year old, unregulated cosmetic on my face, no matter how much I love the shade! Here are some of my favorites:

• Tarte Cheek Stain in “Blissful” ($30)—A gorgeous apricot blush that isn’t too heavy when paired with a dark, winged lashline.
• Stila Eyeshadow Pan in “Kitten” ($18)—A versatile ivory/beige shimmer.
• Cover Girl Outlast Lip Stain in “Plum Pout” ($5.99)—This is not plum on me at all, rather a bright, true red that dries matte and lasts for hours.
• Paula’s Choice Healthy Finish Pressed Powder SPF 15 ($14.95)—If you want to go retro, you have to go matte! This powder has added broad-spectrum SPF and not a fleck of shimmer.
• Prestige Liquid Eyeliner in Black ($9.99)—I adore the old-school inkwell packaging, and it dries matte and doesn’t budge.
• Paula’s Choice BROWlistic ($9.95)—Vintage-inspired ladies have gorgeous full brows! This baby helps me fill in sparse spots without looking drawn-on.

If you love these vintage-inspired looks as much as I do, share with me your favorite styles or products!

Those of you who still have the freedom to make plans on Sunday nights might not know that there’s a full-blown beauty/gender debate unfolding on the fourth season of AMC’s stellar show Mad Men. The television series is set in the ‘60s and centers on the forward-thinking Sterling Cooper Draper Pryce advertising agency. Recently, they landed a big account with Pond’s Cold Cream. While brainstorming for the Pond’s campaign, the marketing team was at a stalemate: Freddy, the sexist but harmless fuddy-duddy, says that if they market Pond’s as a means for women to land a husband, it’ll sell. Peggy, the young proto-feminist copywriter, insists that focusing on Pond’s as part of a woman’s beauty ritual will speak to women who wish to indulge themselves in front of the mirror.

Of course, it’s clear that Peggy has her finger on the pulse of the women’s movement to come, but that doesn’t mean that Freddy’s take on what motivates women to purchase beauty-related products is all that archaic, even by today’s standards. Believe me, I would know. As someone whose job description means being uniquely steeped in beauty product marketing with a critical eye, I can assure you that while the goal may not be to get married, it’s definitely still important to get noticed by men. Don’t believe me? How many beauty products—makeup, skin care, hair care, fragrance—are described as flirty? Sexy? Seductive? A lot. If sex sells anyplace, it’s with beauty products, which are almost exclusively marketed to . . . straight women.

This Pond’s debate on Mad Men got me thinking about what marketing angle sparks my own interest in a beauty product. With everything that Paula has taught me about the beauty industry and as a bona-fide member of The Cosmetics Cop Team, that’s not an easy question to answer. While I can’t say that I shop Dove exclusively, their Campaign for Real Beauty ads have definitely resonated with me. And Dove’s short films like this one that critiques the power that advertising has on women from an early age is compelling. I’m well aware that there’s an inherent hypocrisy to Dove’s marketing angle (particularly the image retouching), but the campaign’s aim seemed true enough to make a lasting impression on me.

What do you think? Are beauty products still aimed at helping a woman find a man or is it about female empowerment? And, for better or worse, which products’ ad campaigns speak to you?