My partner and I recently organized a neighborhood block party. Although we know some of our neighbors quite well, there are proportionately more that tend to keep to themselves unless someone in the community plans an event. Of course, when adults meet for the first time in a social setting, a common question is what one does for a living. I often state that I’m a writer. Or that I manage a Web site. Sometimes that generic answer works, but sometimes follow-up questions occur, such as what type of writing do I do? That’s where things can get sticky…

I don’t mind being more descriptive, but sometimes I find myself reluctant to elaborate because, well, I’m not quite sure why. It may be because I feel the need to over-explain what I do and how Paula and I go about reviewing products, or that I immediately think the person I’m speaking to will question my credentials or think we’re running some rinky-dink operation. After 25 years, even Paula still gets the occasional “who do you think you are?” or “what gives you the right to review products this way?” emails. Would a 40-something female attorney I just met be convinced that her 30-something suburban neighbor (a male, no less) could offer her meaningful, potentially complexion-changing advice about her skin-care routine? And why didn’t I just state that I work in retail, something I can easily converse about?

As it turns out, the female attorney I was speaking with was fascinated by my job. I briefly explained my background and the set of criteria Paula and I have established that form the basis of our reviews. But I was feeling increasingly self-conscious, and begin to wish that either the wine I was drinking would kick in or that someone would ask me to, oh, I don’t know, grill something. I suppose it’s at this point where I felt the need to say something impressive, perhaps to further convince the person I’m speaking with that yes, I really do know what I’m talking about. My attorney neighbor asked what I thought of the Origins line, which she’s been using for a couple of weeks. She stated that she was drawn to the line because they use natural ingredients. I must’ve had a sour look on my face because she took a step back as I explained to her that Origins has more problematic products than helpful ones. Uh-oh…now she was really intrigued.

Adjusting her stance, she leaned forward and exclaimed something I’ve heard time and time again: “But I thought natural ingredients were better for our skin!” I replied that nothing could be further from the truth, though there are some very good natural ingredients in skin-care products. She said “But not in Origins products?”, to which I responded “Sadly, no.” She looked horrified as if I told her that clumps of her hair had just fallen onto the potato salad. I mentioned that Origins was a Lauder-owned line, and although their skin-care products are loaded with fragrant plant irritants, the Estee Lauder and Clinique brands happen to offer some of the most brilliantly-formulated moisturizers and serums anywhere, and neither of these lines make a huge deal about natural ingredients. That perked her up, but it launched us into a discussion about eye creams (she’s a fan of Lauder’s). 20 minutes later (the wine had kicked in now) we were still talking, though I was being a bit more candid. As it turns out, she left vowing to check out our book and subscribe to Beautypedia. And for the next hour or so I fielded a dozen or so “What do you think about this product? “questions.

My job may be unusual, but as it turns out, talking about it can be a great ice-breaker, not to mention an opportunity to educate more people about the staggering amount of false information perpetuated by the cosmetics industry.

My team and I recently reviewed the Isomers skin care line on www.Beautypedia.com. Within hours of the full review being posted, the Isomers forum (on the company’s Web site) was buzzing with comments, mostly in defense of Isomers. I certainly understand consumers wanting to defend the products they’re using, and without question there were many Isomers products that didn’t get a favorable review (yet many also received happy face ratings). What really struck me was the catty response from Manuela Marcheggiani, a co-owner and spokesperson for Isomers on www.shopnbc.com. I’m not going to post what she wrote, but the summation of her defense to my reviews (which, as always, are based on published, substantiated research or the lack thereof, not my personal opinion of the products) included the following:

• I’m self-serving so what I have to say doesn’t matter
• I look too old, so I couldn’t possibly be using good products to take care of my skin
• My background as a makeup artist disqualifies me from possibly knowing anything else other than how to paint faces
• I’m not respected by any professional associations or professionals in the cosmetics industry
• My reviews are meant to serve as a distraction to make my readers feel insecure and keep them from finding “their own truths”
• The only reason I negatively review a product is to make myself feel better (so according to her, the crux of my work is about nothing more than stroking my ego)

I could go on, but I’m sure you get the idea. Here is what I wrote in response to Manuela’s comments; feel free to comment about this on my blog. I look forward to your feedback, for better or worse (I can take it, so don’t hold back if you’re upset about my review of Isomers):

My goodness, not exactly loving, but definitely filled with feelings (a bit insulting but I’m sure you feel I insulted you so perhaps we can call it even and change karma.) Nonetheless, I do my work based on published research so let me state what I believe to be true by the facts and then we can simply agree to disagree.

• I have sold over 3 million books since 1984.
• I am a member of the Society for Cosmetic Chemists.
• I have presented papers at dermatology conferences around the world.
• I have consulted with many dermatology practices and pharmaceutical companies over the years (I used to be a formulary consultant).
• My books are in dermatology offices around the world (at least those that don’t sell skin care products).
• I have developed products for other cosmetic companies.
• I had a science background in college and continue to follow scientific advances and studies.
• I do love selling my books and selling my products (I assume you love selling your products too).
• I am the only cosmetic company in the world that recommends hundreds of other products besides my own. How self-serving can any company be who isn’t afraid to say someone else has great products too and give them great big happy faces when they do and publish that information?

If you or someone in your company will send me the published research disputing the facts in my review (which we called and asked for before we wrote a word, we were told once that there wasn’t any and the next time that it wasn’t available to the public) I will alter my reviews. For example, what evidence is there, except from the manufacturer, that matrixyl or Accelerated Recovery Complex has benefit for skin in comparison to other products or even by itself. Please provide me any and all research you have and I will be glad to correct any errors.

Paula Begoun, Author Don’t Go To The Cosmetics Counter Without Me and www.beautypedia.com

One of the enjoyable parts of researching for Beautypedia (and there are many!) is creating the various stories we need to use that will gain us access at a cosmetic counter to the ingredient lists they often refuse to let us write down. As fictitious are our tales often are, these stories don’t exactly haunt our consciences because they often reflect the kind of questions that Beautypedia subscribers ask us all the time and are never so far-fetched that they don’t resemble that of an actual customer. Examples would be when subscribers seek to check an unknown ingredient with their dermatologist, or cross check for interactions with other products, or just simply want to be informed consumers. We know we are working on your behalf when we’re out there collecting information, which makes it all the more frustrating when the answers don’t come easily, or in many cases accurately.

Fortunately for Beautypedia subscribers, we have the expertise to tell if the information we’ve been given by a cosmetics counter representative doesn’t add up. Without that kind of expertise, however, consumers trying to figure out what to buy are at a serious disadvantage. If there’s one thing that we’ve learned as researchers for Beautypedia, it’s that the cosmetics counter people don’t consistently or even often distribute correct information. Whether it’s intentionally misleading or (more likely) simply borne of bad sales training which produces complete and utter misinformation of their own product, we’re frequently reminded that salespeople are exactly that, salespeople and it’s not wise to rely on the information they give you about skin care or the value of the products they sell.

Case in point: Last week I called a Shiseido counter for foundation’s ingredients and the salesperson couldn’t even find the ingredient list on the box. And even though I patiently assured her that it was there somewhere, she became flustered and snapped “I’m the one looking at it, and I can assure you it’s not listed.” You can imagine the restraint it required not to call her back and gloat, after the next counter I called had found it without any trouble at all.

Locating the ingredients isn’t the only hurdle, however. Sometimes, companies can’t decide which ingredients they’re using at all. Take, for instance, a few phone calls we made recently to a few cosmetic counters in order to confirm the active ingredient in a Laura Mercier sunscreen. ALL SPF products must list the active ingredients they use in their products. I mean, it’s a simple question: “Can you tell me the active ingredients for your sunscreen?” The first counter person told us, “Argan Oil,” which, incidentally, is neither a sunscreen ingredient nor an active ingredient of any kind. The next counter we called told us “Oxybenzone,” which is indeed a sunscreen, but the counter rep couldn’t tell us the amount used and it is rarely used by itself on an ingredient list. We then called Laura Mercier’s corporate office; they told us “titanium dioxide,” a wholly different ingredient from the last, and the amount they specified? “Less than 1%.” If that’s the case it doesn’t amount to much more then an SPF of 2! Geesh!