Before the fall weather took hold of Seattle, I decided to hit my favorite flea market to get one last fix of vintage oddities at bargain prices. Looking through the hodgepodge of goods, I came across an antique Revlon rouge compact that I estimated to be from the late ’40s or early ’50s. It was beautiful: made of a heavy gold metal, the round compact had an art-deco design and Revlon inscribed across it—a far cry from the plastic Revlon compacts in drugstores today! I couldn’t control the urge to open it, and to my surprise the product housed inside was still in great condition. The compact held a bright cream blush called Clear Red, as well as a tiny, tattered puff applicator. I smeared a little bit of the blush on the back of my hand, and even more surprisingly, the blue-based red hue transferred and blended well!

Perhaps it’s because I’m surrounded by makeup at work, but these pigments had me enchanted—they were so distinctively retro and unlike anything I see in stores today. And there’s a good reason for that: Cosmetic regulations in the ’70s delisted certain red dyes that had the most amazing depth of color, staying power, and creamy lush consistency. Regrettably, more recently developed cosmetic color additives just haven’t come close to the classic shades that came before. Nevertheless, what I find compelling about vintage makeup is how it utilizes a handful of products in rich but basic shades to create nearly universally, timeless, and flattering looks. To me, it really proves that the classics are always beautiful.

Now with the proliferation of period TV like Mad Men and Boardwalk Empire, and the ever-expanding list of celebrities like Gwen Stefani, Katy Perry, and Dita von Teese who don retro-inspired fashion, my preoccupation with vintage makeup has officially eclipsed my interest in chasing the latest trends. I’m now turning to the stunning looks of the past for beauty inspiration. I’m fortunate to have a face and personality that can pull off retro styles—I have big eyes, pale skin, round cheeks and a strong cupid’s bow mouth—and perhaps a soul that’s a bit on the sentimental side.

That said, I still keep my more stylized makeup designs mostly confined to evenings and weekends. Instead, for daytime I try to incorporate a subtle element or two of retro-ness, without it looking like I’m headed to a costume party. To that end, I’m always on the lookout for makeup that will translate as vintage—because I’m not putting a 60-year old, unregulated cosmetic on my face, no matter how much I love the shade! Here are some of my favorites:

• Tarte Cheek Stain in “Blissful” ($30)—A gorgeous apricot blush that isn’t too heavy when paired with a dark, winged lashline.
• Stila Eyeshadow Pan in “Kitten” ($18)—A versatile ivory/beige shimmer.
• Cover Girl Outlast Lip Stain in “Plum Pout” ($5.99)—This is not plum on me at all, rather a bright, true red that dries matte and lasts for hours.
• Paula’s Choice Healthy Finish Pressed Powder SPF 15 ($14.95)—If you want to go retro, you have to go matte! This powder has added broad-spectrum SPF and not a fleck of shimmer.
• Prestige Liquid Eyeliner in Black ($9.99)—I adore the old-school inkwell packaging, and it dries matte and doesn’t budge.
• Paula’s Choice BROWlistic ($9.95)—Vintage-inspired ladies have gorgeous full brows! This baby helps me fill in sparse spots without looking drawn-on.

If you love these vintage-inspired looks as much as I do, share with me your favorite styles or products!

Before I came to work for Paula, I spent several years working for various cosmetic companies, usually at the department store. For the most part, I enjoyed it. I taught myself how to do makeup, and developed a loyal clientele of regulars who requested my advice on what to purchase or how to apply it. But whether I worked at stores in the Midwest, south, or northwest United States, one thing was constant: women shopping for a new lipstick routinely gravitated toward colors that were similar if not nearly identical to what was already in their purse or on their vanities.

Here’s how the average scenario went: a woman approaches the counter with determined gusto and surveys the lipstick tester unit. I greet her and offer assistance, to which her response is that she’s “looking for a new color”. After a few questions to narrow down her preferences (creamy, matte, sheer, bright or muted colors, etc.) I make some suggestions. Sometimes that worked, sometimes it didn’t. After some frustrating experiences, I began asking women to show me the lipstick they use most often. It was almost always a pink-brown shade or a nude color. That’s fine, but then why, if you’re shopping for a new color, did they end up choosing something barely different from what they routinely wear?

I’d suggest going lighter, darker, more shimmery, pinker, or even (horrors!) trying a red tone, almost always to no avail. I have spoken to many women about this over the years, including those in my family and personal friends. None of them could give me a reasonable explanation for why they shop for a new lipstick color and end up purchasing the same type of shade they’ve always worn. So I have my own theory: the novelty and excitement of shopping for a new lipstick, that one shade that will give you an added boost and make people take notice (for the better) is just too irresistible. It gets women to the cosmetic counter, but when it comes time to select a truly new color, they back down and stick with what’s safe.

Perhaps they don’t want to leave feeling they’ve wasted their money (nowadays a department store lipstick can set you back $23 or more) or perhaps common sense prevails and they rationalize that what they chose is different enough to work, and hey, they really will wear it. Maybe that’s why free gifts with purchase are so popular: women can spend the qualifying amount on a product they’re certain they like and will use, yet still have the impetuous fun of trying new colors without the financial commitment. As for me, I learned that if I only suggested “new” colors that were slightly different than what the customer typically wore, she’d leave happy—and I’d have my commission and, more than likely, a repeat customer!

Did You Know? According to a survey conducted by Estee Lauder, more than 80% of women own at least one tube of lipstick; Women over the age of 35 use lipstick more frequently than younger women; Paula’s favorite cosmetic lines for those looking for gorgeous red lipsticks include Revlon, Lorac, Vincent Longo, and Trish McEvoy.